SICILIAN GRAPES
Researchers think there are more than 50 native grape varieties in Sicily. Here are some of the key ones to know and taste.
CARRICANTE
Benanti’s Pietramarina is made from 100% carricante grown at 860m on Etna’s eastern slopes, about 5km from the ocean. It is put through a unique vinification process that involves gentle pressure in a horizontal press, maturation in stainless steel tanks for three years, and at least 18 months in the bottle. The result: a graceful, complex white that balances minerality, salinity and acidity with a touch of softness.
Tenuta delle Terre Nere also does a 100 per cent carricante. Its elegant Santo Spirito has a high acidity that suggests good potential for ageing.
FRAPPATO DI VITTORIA
Although frappato is usually used in a blend with Nero d’Avola to make Cerasuola di Vittoria, Planeta makes a delicious 100 per cent varietal. Its Frappato undergoes seven or eight days of skin contact and maturation only in steel tanks.
GRECANICO
COS makes Pithos Bianco of 100 per cent grecanico fermented underground in terracotta amphorae. It is believed the grape was brought to Italy in 7th century BC by the Greeks. The grape is known for its aromas of ripe white melon and flowers, its clean, fresh flavours of pear, white peach and nectarine, and its medium body and mild, balanced finish.
NERELLO CAPPUCCIO
While nerello cappuccio usually plays a supporting role in red blends, Benanti bottles a rare 100 per cent cappuccio that showcases the typicity of the variety: freshness, plenty of pepper and spice, and with a similar acidity and minerality to a Pinot Noir.
NERELLO MASCALESE
Benanti’s Contrada Monte Serra is 100 per cent nerello mascalese, matured for 12 months in 500 litre barrels of French oak, and is beautifully elegant, a “true expression of the elegance of the wines of Etna”, as Antonio Benanti, who will soon be making a sparkling rose from mascalese grapes, describes it.
NERO D’AVOLA
Planeta’s Santa Cecilia 100 per cent Nero d’Avola from Noto DOC is a delight. The grapes go through 20 days of skin contact, maceration in steel, and 14 months in oak followed by at least a year in the bottle. It pairs well with heavier dishes of lamb or ragu. Ideal for ageing for up to 15 years, the 2005 vintage is especially noteworthy.