The Way of Kueh

CHRISTOPHER TAN

THE BOOK This is more movement than book. Its creator’s passion for traditional kueh is embodied in the 98 meticulously researched and written recipes designed to compel even the most inexperienced cooks to pick up their wooden spoons and have a go at their favourite kueh. Beyond providing mere guidance on the art of kueh making, the book delves deep into the science and culture of kueh and pays homage to the personal experiences of respected kueh masters across the country.

THE AUTHOR Christopher Tan is a well-known food writer, food historian, and culinary instructor. He began research for the book in 2015 before applying for the Heritage Project Grant from the National Heritage Board in 2017. Where most authors draw the line at writing, researching and testing recipes for their cookbooks, Tan also styled and photographed every image on its pages – an all-consuming effort that explains the number of years it took to complete this epic endeavour.

TRY THIS Sure, kueh can be arduous to make, but it can also be surprisingly simple. We suggest you begin with kueh bingka ( baked tapioca kueh), which calls for little more than stirring together a mixture of grated tapioca, coconut milk and several other ingredients. Tan’s recipe calls for grating your tapioca, which is admittedly laborious, but the result is a deliciously creamy, sticky, toasty and golden-crusted kueh, kissed with the deep scent of banana leaves. It is the kueh that will push you towards making yet other kueh in your home kitchen, which is precisely the point of this seminal book.