LIQUID CALM
Celebrated for its natural scarcity and exclusivity, the life- giving elixir of fine tea holds inestimable value for enthusiasts.
Celebrated for its natural scarcity and exclusivity, the life- giving elixir of fine tea holds inestimable value for enthusiasts.
Following the publication of The Classic of Tea by Tang dynasty tea sage Lu Yu some 1,300 years ago, it was no longer a beverage consumed just for its medicinal, thirstquenching attributes. Elevated to an elegant pursuit alongside calligraphy, painting, incense, floral arrangement and the like, tea found its way into the hearts of the literati, who declared it a form of art and philosophical thought.
Today, it is the secondmost widely consumed beverage after water, and its finest offerings are worth their weight in gold. “Like great wine and whisky, fine tea is highly valued and soug ht after by collectors and enthusiasts alike,” says Hong, founder of Woo Tea Studio. “Terroir, craftsmanship, natural scarcity and singularity are just some of the factors contributing to these teas’ exclusivity and desirability.”
These qualities have captivated
the attention of numerous chefs and sommeliers, who now present it as a worthy substitute for wine. Michelinstarred restaurant Beni offers diners Royal Blue Tea, touted to be “on par with the best of wine and Champagne”. It even comes packaged in wine bottles with clean, elegant labels describing names, cultivars, and appellations.
Similarly, at the contemporary kappo-style Esora, chef-owner Shigeru Koizumi affords diners a curated tea pairing option. By sourcing seasonal selections to match dishes on the food menu, he shows how tea can further enhance the dining experience.
A SIP OF MINDFULNESS
The alluring flavours, however, are not its only appeal. Ever since monks of old discovered tea helped maintain a state of alert calmness during long periods of meditation, the wondrous brew has come to be treasured for its soothing effect. And while, like coffee, the caffeine in tea supplies the drinker with a burst of energy and alertness, tea contains another compound coffee lacks – theanine, an amino acid that promotes a sensation of mental focus and calmness without drowsiness.
As it turns out, it is also in the ancient monastic traditions that the tea ceremonies of China and Japan find their roots. Lu Yu spent his formative years under the tutelage of a Buddhist monk, and the intimate friendship he later formed with the Buddhist poet Jiao Ran would undoubtedly have had an influence on his tea practice.
Rikyu, the head tea master for general Toyotomi Hideyoshi, was a monk of Zen Buddhism. Considered the greatest and most influential figure in the history of the Japanese whisked tea ceremony, he is recognised as the founder of Japan’s three foremost tea schools, which to this today are dedicated to transmitting the tea ceremony as observed and practised by
Rikyu himself.
For many people unaccustomed to the ascetic practices of religion, sitting through a traditional tea ceremony may feel like a test of endurance where rigidly rehearsed movements are performed with ceremonial ritualistic intent, all carried out in awkwardly unbearable silence. But for the tea practitioner, this seemingly austere ceremony is a practice of mindfulness. Every movement, from the boiling of the water to the raising of the teacup, is an outward reflection of discipline, inner stillness, and contemplation.
The more these movements are rehearsed, the easier it is for the body to carry out the actions without conscious thought. Like walking and breathing, performing the tea ceremony becomes instinctive, freeing one to be mindful of intent, equanimity, charity, and similarly lofty ideals and values that underpin
“EVERY MOVEMENT OF THE TEA CEREMONY IS AN OUTWARD REFLECTION OF DISCIPLINE, INNER STILLNESS, AND CONTEMPLATION.”
“THAT TEA HAS FOUND RENEWED INTEREST IN THE FIELDS OF FINE DINING, HEALTH AND WELLNESS SAYS A LOT ABOUT WHAT IT HAS TO OFFER IN A WORLD WHERE LIVES ARE REWIRED FOR A DIGITAL AGE. “
the practice of tea. So calming, tranquil, and beauteous is this practice that the illustrious Japanese scholar and art critic Okakura Kakuzo calls it the zen of aestheticism.
“The cut and colour of the dress, the poise of the body, and the manner of walking could all be made expressions of artistic personality,” he wrote. “These were matters not to be lightly ignored for until one has made himself beautiful, he has no right to approach beauty.”
At the heart of all this is the concept of mindfulness. The idea that at a tea ceremony, there is no past or future but only here and now, encourages one to be in the present, and to live and experience the very moment for what it is. Hence, tea also finds a ready audience among various mindful disciplines such as yoga, and among people who yearn for a lifestyle marked by simplicity, quietude, and a love for aesthetics. To them, tea is not an escape from life, but the very means by which to live it.
MASS APPEAL
That tea has found renewed interest in the fields of fine dining, health and wellness, and self-cultivation says a lot about what it has to offer in a world where our lives are rewired for a digital age. There is something so warmly human and intimate in receiving a cup of tea. Perhaps it is the peace and serenity that the drink brings to us. Or perhaps it is the simple act of selfless giving that we so fundamentally crave.
The growth of the industry reflects this trend. Starbucks may have closed its Teavana stores – a sign of the times, some say – but there are plenty of new boutique tea brands, lounges and salons to take their place. The Singapore
Tea Festival, which has seen two successful shows thus far, appears to be growing stronger still. And, in what may be the most encouraging sign yet, the love of all things tea is driven by free-spirited entrepreneurs – mostly in their 20s and 30s – with a strong sense of identity and direction.
This in turn has fuelled the popularity of teaware collecting.
Both on social media and in real life, hobbyists and seasoned practitioners are only too eager to display their latest tea toys and gear. For those who desire to take their love for teaware a step further and make their own, pottery studios such as The Potters’ Guilt provide an opportunity to bring creative dreams to fruition — tea bowls, cups and pots line the walls here, quietly testifying to the endless hours of loving labour put into crafting each and every vessel.
If this burgeoning passion for the tea leaf prevails, we may soon find ourselves immersed in third-wave tea, with a strong focus on speciality growths and artisanal wares. Take it with your digital detox.