THE FLAVOUR DIFFERENCE

While spirits generally do not change soon after being bottled, several decades of sitting around can cause compounds to start breaking down and introduce oxygenation and evaporation, changing their character. As a rule of thumb, the higher the alcohol by volume percentage (ABV) of a product, the less dramatic the change. “The freshness of a vintage gin above 45 ABV can be quite breathtaking,” says Harden, sharing his experience with a bottle of vintage Gordon’s, where its original Juniperforward notes had taken a backseat to the citrus. On the other hand, something like Campari, at 25 ABV, would have undergone revelatory changes. “[The Campari] would have oxidised completely after 40 years, darkening in colour as its ingredients decayed and recombined, and creating a rich, nutty flavour.”

Even beyond the influence of age, multiple factors that can contribute to a product’s significant deviation from what consumers might find today. Recipes, equipment and even raw material such as grain or fruit could have been very different, resulting in a different-tasting spirit.

While brands are usually reluctant to discuss this, the difference is perceptible. “A 1950s Drambuie, an iconic golden Scotch whisky liqueur infused with a secret blend of honey, herbs and spices, tastes of heather honey and smoke from peatier malts while a 1950s Grand Marnier has a richer, more complex flavour than the current product because the dried orange skins came from a variety of different types of orange,” notes Harden.

AN EXQUISI EXQUISITE POUR

This bottle o of Premier Empire, Re Reserve de Sazerac de F Forge & Fils fine Champag Champagne cognac that was dist distilled circa 1804-14 was bought for £10,000, to be used in vintage sazerac cockta cocktails.