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Gold doesn’t have to be old. These timepieces demonstrate new ways to spin familiar materials.
Gold doesn’t have to be old. These timepieces demonstrate new ways to spin familiar materials.
Sometimes, a watch doesn’t need to have 50 patents and space-age or -sourced materials to turn heads. Some of the most eye-catching this year are new takes on familiar materials that boast altered colours and properties because innovation can just be as impressive on the surface.
01 OMEGA SEAMASTER 300: BRONZE GOLD
There are those among us who enjoy bronze watches not for the metal’s ability to age with its wearer, but for its unique colour alone. Odd, yes, but not so uncommon as to deter Omega from giving them exactly what they want. The brand’s newly developed Bronze Gold is a copper alloy that’s mixed with 9K gold, palladium and silver to give it a warm hue that’s somewhere in between Omega’s pale yellow Moonshine Gold and lightly rosy Sedna Gold that won’t oxidise easily nor stain the skin. It debuts in this year’s 41mm Seamaster 300, which also boasts a shiny new movement: Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912.
02 HERMES H08: GRAPHENE
Reportedly 200 times stronger than steel and 1,000 times lighter than paper, graphene is touted as the next big thing in material science. While the most popular example in watchmaking is Richard Mille’s RM 50-03, the world’s lightest split-seconds chronograph tourbillon at just 40g, Hermes offers an accessible option in its new H08 men’s collection. Of the three debut models, one features a middle case of graphene composite with a ceramic bezel. Its black and grey theme makes it suitably futuristic. Inside, however, is a traditional H1837 movement with twin barrels and a 50-hour power reserve.
03 MONTBLANC 1858 SPLIT SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH: LIME GOLD
It’s easy to forget that there are other hues beyond yellow, white and rose or pink gold. Montblanc’s first precious metal version of its 1858 Split Seconds Chronograph uses what it calls “Lime Gold”, better known as green gold. It is typically made by mixing silver with gold and is usually found in jewellery and Nobel Prize medals. Montblanc’s version uses 18K gold, silver and iron to achieve its minty tinge and is paired with green accents on the dial. To add to the preciousness of this limited edition, the plates and bridges are made of German silver and plated in 18K gold. Only 18 pieces are available.
04 TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT 925: SILVER
Silver’s softness, brilliance and susceptibility to tarnishing make it a suitable choice for watch dials since it’s easy to engrave while being protected under a crystal. Silver cases, however, are a different story. That has not stopped watchmakers from giving it a go. Earlier this year, Zenith released its second silver watch, the vintage-inspired
Pilot Type 20 Chronograph with a matching brushed silver dial. Tudor has gone further.
The watchmaker developed a secret silver alloy for the case of its new Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925. It promises this case won’t discolour with use, giving us a brighter, slightly more precious option over stainless steel.