Meal for two with drinks: from $150

Time Out Singapore - - Food & Drink -

IN THE EX­PAT HAVEN of Robert­son Quay, where boozy week­nights tum­ble into lazy week­ends, a res­tau­rant built on ‘chill beach­side vibes’ seems oblig­a­tory. And with this Mediter­ranean-lean­ing small plates joint from the folks be­hind Neon Pi­geon, the neigh­bour­hood fi­nally gets what it de­serves – never mind that it’s miles from sea.

The decor checks off all the boxes you’d ex­pect: it’s open-air, sun­light­drenched and with enough rat­tan, bam­boo, and burlap to be mis­taken for a Bri­tishIn­dia out­let. Lo­cated on the banks of the Sin­ga­pore River, the space is de­signed for whiling away hours in. Which, given the wellex­e­cuted dishes, won’t be a prob­lem.

Or­der­ing the char-grilled oc­to­pus ($19) is a no-brainer. Sum­mer­long’s ver­sion is smoky, slick with honey, and paired with thick parsnip chips that re­sem­ble the seafood in both ap­pear­ance and sweet­ness. The black cod ($25) is an­other stand­out: per­fectly pan-fried, with fried capers and Tus­can kale that add crunch to the dish. Not all the seafood works, though. A pe­tite bowl of steamed mus­sels ($21), swimming in a spicy broth along­side crum­bles of lamb sausage, is too clumsy to jus­tify its price tag.

And that, un­for­tu­nately, sums up Sum­mer­long. Here’s a solid, easy­go­ing res­tau­rant whose dishes are good, but not spec­tac­u­lar enough to war­rant a re­turn visit. Iliyas Ong

#01-04, 60 Robert­son Quay (6235 1225, sum­mer­ Clarke Quay. Tue-Fri 5pm-mid­night; Sat & Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-mid­night.

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