Thick, heavy, outsized dive watches are U-boat’s forte, and the Chimera Net is the latest from the brand, with a twist on the layered dial aesthetic
Bronze dive watches are very much in vogue, and U-boat’s Chimera Net is the latest to join the fray. The timepiece has a 46mm case in naturally aged bronze, accentuated by a humongous crown and two equally imposing pushers on the left of the case, topped off with U-boat’s signature protective lever. For an added layer of security, the sculpted pusher between the crown and its guard must be depressed to eject the crown from its recessed position before the date and time can be set.
To achieve the dial’s look, three sublayers are imposed over each other, with the lowest made from laser-cut wire mesh. This affords a view of the U-77 modified Valjoux Top Soigné automatic movement underneath. The counters are laid out like the archetypal tri-compax chronograph, but with a twist – an additional 24-hour indicator has been included at seven o’clock.
The watch’s design is clearly larger than life, and its technical aspects back things up, with an over-engineered slant that’s visually apparent in several places. To improve water resistance, the bezel and back of the case are locked together by external tubing, while the flat crystal on the back is sealed with two gaskets. The thick hand-finished calf leather strap makes for a very macho complement to this heavyweight bruiser, which is limited to 300 pieces. MOVEMENT U-77 Valjoux Top Soigné automatic chronograph calibre with 24-hour indicator
CASE 46mm in full bronze or bronze and blackened steel, water resistant to 100m
STRAP Brown calfskin leather with steel tongue buckle and bronze inserts