吾语 IN THE FIRST PLACE
Diving Deep Into Dining 吃的层次
It’s three or four in the morning at Tsukiji market in Tokyo and more than a thousand tuna, each longer than a man is tall, line the wet floors of the crowded and noisy warehouse, awaiting their turn on the auction block.
Each time I visit Tsukiji, which is the world’s largest seafood wholesale market, the sight of those magnificent fish never fails to jolt me out of my midmorning stupor. Although the carcasses are frozen stiff, there remains a quiet dignity about them, maybe for how beloved they are of chefs and gourmands worldwide, that hundreds of thousands of dollars are exchanged for each fish.
By the time the fish are sliced and reach our dining tables, we would be paying no small sum for that divine taste of tuna. I have stood in line for five hours at the sushi stalls at Tsukiji in sub-zero December temperatures for the freshest otoro and tuna sushi possible — at less than the $50 per piece of otoro sushi I’ve paid outside of Japan. The real price for my indulgence came later: I caught a whale of a cold from queueing in those freezing temperatures, a cold that took three months to go away.
My l ove for this irresistible fish has l ed to an interest i n everything about its habitat, the way it is caught, how it is sorted and graded, and how overfishing is prevented, because the worst thing that could happen is if we eat it to extinction. As responsible diners, we now expect more of ourselves and to know more about the food on our plates. Which is why, when we sit down at good restaurants and the servers and chefs share inside information about what we will be served, it all heightens the pleasure of the dining experience. After all, learning about the food we eat is part and parcel of elevating a simple meal to an experience that stimulates all the senses.
From the vast oceans to fishing methods, wholesale operations to the dinner table, we bring you deep into the world of the tuna in this issue of ZbBz. Certainly, I know that I will treasure every bite of the fish even more from now on.
凌 晨三四点的东京，在全球最大的海鲜批发中心筑地市场，上千条 比人还大的金枪鱼冰冷地躺在拥挤和嘈杂热闹的仓库内，等着被 拍卖。
这情况我特地去看过好几次，惺忪睡眼总是被壮观的“鱼尸”震 撼，它们即使僵硬了、冰冷了，仍带不可磨灭的尊严，被全世界的大厨 和老饕崇拜与追求，每年开年上百万元一条的拍卖天价，奠定了 “鱼神”地位。
我曾为了吃一口肥美的Otoro，在12月的筑地市场冒着摄氏 零下几度的严寒，排了五个小时队，换来至少50元一片入口即融 的“肥油”，结果感冒了三个月才痊愈。但我心甘情愿，因为实在抗拒 不了金枪鱼的美味。
我对金枪鱼的一切都感兴趣，它们从哪里来，如何上岸，怎么批 发，如何保鲜，怎样切割，为何美味，哪部分最好吃，是不是有营养， 是否物有所值，这都是我渴望知道的。
我想，这也是很多爱吃金枪鱼或任何美味佳肴的老饕想要知道的， 因为我们对自己的要求越来越高，对所吞下肚的食物有越来越强的求知 欲。当我们在星级餐馆用膳，侍者和大厨对每道佳肴和每种食材解说得 越仔细，无形中就越提升我们吃的层次，将进食从单纯的填饱肚子晋升 为挑逗味蕾的艺术，以及对吃的学习。
从深海、捕捉、批发到上桌，这一期我和大家一样兴奋地潜入金 枪鱼的世界，细看金枪鱼从开始到结束的命运和过程。不认真仔细探讨 一番，还真不知道金枪鱼一生曲折复杂。可以肯定的是，经过这样的探 知，我下一回吃金枪鱼，将更珍惜每一嚼。