Inspiration can come from anywhere and for Italian bespoke label Berluti’s spring/summer 2015 menswear, it lies in the Japanese art of paper-folding有男装界劳斯莱斯之称的Berluti，2015春夏系列以日本折纸艺术为创作灵感，以传统手艺结合独特材质和创新科技，带来让人无法抗拒的作品。
Berluti, the master shoemaker from Italy, is turning its expertise in bespoke leather footwear to menswear. Its artistic director Alessandro Sartori sees to this personally, being responsible for both footwear design and the ready-to-wear collections of the luxury brand that dates back to 1895 Paris.
Sartori, who was born in Biella, Italy, started developing Berluti’s menswear collections three years ago, combining classic looks with a modern twist, and has injected new vitality into the brand as a result.
He recently said in Hong Kong when presenting Berluti’s spring/summer 2015 collection, which offers light and sporty tailoring: “I wanted to introduce Sports Couture with the most innovative, luxurious materials from the forefront of fabric research, put to use with the most exquisite craftsmanship.”
Drawing from the Japanese art of origami, he explored new pattern-cutting methods and manufacturing techniques to create a sense of lightness and strength in the clothes.
The origami influence is apparent in such handworked details as pockets, pleat collars and lapels — entirely original constructions using folds that do away with the need for cutting, sewing and interlining. The origami techniques are evident in the very building of the pieces too — they have been assembled like geometric collages. The Origami coat stands as a prime example of the way in which this new approach to design elevates a familiar piece of clothing to a new level of architectural refinement.
Other fabrics this season are similarly thin, fresh and light: Solaro, in various blends of silk and linen, some with cashmere and cotton; lightweight silk mohair; and a summer Shetland silk that uses fine Indian silk mixed with cotton to keep it light, handwoven on manual looms. Its knitwear uses four to six layers of cotton cashmere. There are also two new fabrics: a paper-touch waxed linen; and a silk and linen poplin treated with a ceramic glaze to give it a leather-like finish, making it hard-wearing and waterproof.
The same natural enzyme treatment has been applied to the interior surface of fabrics to reinforce them and give them a crisp drape while keeping their surface soft to the touch. This process does away with the need for the heavy canvas interlinings that are conventionally used for reinforcing fabrics, giving the garments strength without
Berluti’s spring/summer 2015 collection draws inspiration from the Japanese art of origami.