CUCINA LABIA

BEST FOR A meal with a gorgeous sea view, away from the crowds. FOOD The menu is inventive. On the starters menu, a Waldorf salad is reimagined with a roasted apple, overflowing with strong roasted brie, a braised endive and goat’s cheese. A cherry-smoked duck comes with a beautiful jelly, made with sliced grapes and duck parfait. For mains, the osso buco is a triumph and the Weskus-inspired fish of the day is similarly successful. Dessert includes chocolate fondant and affogato. DRINKS A good wine list, with limited options by the glass. SERVICE Wonderful, friendly, knowledgeable staff help keep the mood light. AMBIENCE Once the home of Count and Countess Labia, this grand structure is designed in the style of an 18th Century Venetian palazzo. Embossed wallpaper, filigree chandeliers, grand old paintings and ornate ceiling panels will take you back in time. On Saturdays and Sundays, over lunch, an accomplished pianist plays in an adjoining room. (KP)