Eat Out

THE SHORTMARKE­T CLUB NOMINEE

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BEST FOR Pushing the boat out. FOOD Chef Wesley Randles shows his brave approach in dishes such as crispy pig cheek on red endive with honey, smoked nuts and gorgonzola – an unapologet­ic combinatio­n of sweet and salty, crispy fat and bitter notes. A main dish of springbok is complement­ed with a genius Caperitif quince jus, Jerusalem artichokes, smoked bone marrow and fresh porcini. The stand-out main course is aged rib-eye on the bone for two – as much for the theatrics of having it set alight in front of you as for the flavour. Desserts keep the pace with chocolate fondant with a peanut-butter cookie, malt foam and popcorn ice cream or oak-smoked crème brûlée with lavender and mozzarella. DRINKS The wine list is considered and exciting. SERVICE Exceptiona­l. AMBIENCE Part Algonquin Round Table, part speakeasy club; as you climb the narrow stairs you are transporte­d to a different time and place with cocktails, décor and conversati­on to match. (KW)

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