THE SNOOTY FOX

BEST FOR An escape to the country for indulgent eating. FOOD Executive chef Alex Poltera takes pride in presenting simple, flavoursome dishes based on fresh local ingredients. The starter of salt-and-pepper squid served with pickled cucumber ribbons and fresh chilli, lime and coriander aioli is worth a return visit. Main courses include deboned oxtail with red-wine-and-mushroom risotto, and duck tagliatelle, in which perfectly cooked and shredded crispy duck integrates with a tomato-and-basil sauce in fresh pasta. There’s a separate vegan menu with a beetrootand-lentil burger or grilled sweet potato with chickpea tofu, peppadew pesto and tahini. Everyone should end with the vegan vanilla panna cotta. DRINKS The award-winning wine list provides in-depth descriptions. There’s also an extensive range of craft beers, gins, whiskies and brandies. SERVICE The service is impeccable: jovial and knowledgable. AMBIENCE It’s all old-world charm in this cosy, romantic restaurant. (NJ)