Bicycling (South Africa)

THE FRICTION OF MOSS

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Riding your bike off the map and into rainblanke­ted mountains isn’t most people’s idea of a ‘fun’ activity. I mean, who does this? After spending more than an hour to climb to nearly 1 000m, we pass the peak of Takanawa-san, outside the town of Matsuyama, and turn onto yet another road with no name.

It’s day seven, and though I can’t fathom the reason, the roads we climb today are relatively well-paved and clean; but the descents are dusted with pine needles and sport a green band of moss in the middle, like a deranged racing stripe. Prior to the descent, Eric Smith had observed that the coefficien­t of friction for moss approaches zero. Although traffic has cleared some of the needles, which improves our odds for traction, it also serves as a reminder to anticipate the presence of a car or truck.

The practical upshot is that I drop down a steep mountain road barely wide enough for Soco’s Land Cruiser, on a strip of wet tar rarely more than 35cm across that curves unpredicta­bly around the rock outcroppin­gs. I don’t feel safe switching lanes unless I can see 100m up the road, which occurs but a handful of times during an eight-kay descent. The manoeuvre requires me to shoot straight across a section with the bike as upright as a flagpole, so that I won’t risk sliding out. Each time it makes me nervous enough to become self-conscious, aware of my hands in the drops, how I sit in the saddle. When my rear wheel slides ever so slightly, it gives me a jolt of adrenaline sharp enough to make my whole body shake. As if that isn’t enough, I have to remind myself that each time I enter a blind turn there could be a 1.8m-wide vehicle around the bend of the 2.4m-wide road. Eric Romney, who at his peak had been talented enough as a racer to receive contracts with pro teams, has a sixth sense about approachin­g vehicles, as well as traction. He rolls into descents with the sort of confidence I reserve for roads I know by heart.

Do you have a spiritual practice?

This is it.

What kind of a prayer this is meant to be, I can’t say. And yet, I am here, going slowly enough to be prudent, and fast enough to keep my brain in the present.

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