A mixed case of Malbec
Once known as ‘the black grape of Cahors’ in the nineteenth century, Malbec remains one of the five cornerstones of a red Bordeaux-style blend. Graham Howe explains
TRANSPLANTED from Bordeaux to Argentina in the nineteenth century, 72% of Malbec in the world is planted in Argentina today. The meaty, savoury flavours of Malbec, a dense, deeply coloured wine with typical spicy mulberry, cherry and plum character, and big, ripe tannins complement meaty cuisine.
Pioneered in Paarl and Stellenbosch in the 1920s where it thrived in rich soils and warm conditions, the first Cape Malbec was released by Backsberg in the early 1990s. While many cellars feature Malbec in Bordeaux-style blends in the Cape today, only a handful are single varietal — inter alia Anura, Blaauwklippen, Diemersfontein, High Constantia, Le Pommier, Neethlingshof, Plaisir de Merle, Raka and Signal Hill.
Anura Malbec Limited Release 2010. This family winery in the Simonsberg ward is celebrating its first ten vintages. The cellar has evolved a house style combining the elegant complexity of the old world with the robust fruit of the new world. This voluptuous wine has layers of ripe black fruit and piquant, tangy flavours.
Blaauwklippen Malbec 2008. This major hub on the Stellenbosch wine route makes Malbec in a typically spicy style with dark fruit varietal character entices with flavours of dark chocolate, rum, berries, vanilla and eucalyptus. Gentle maturation in large oak vats ensures soft tannins, a complex, deep structure and a juicy, fruity finish.
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem Malbec 2010. One of the top examples of Malbec in the Cape comes from a grand homestead and winery in Wellington. This blockbuster delivers ripe aromas of brambles, plums and cherry tobacco. The flavours are equally big and bold with blueberry and roasted mocha highlights, rich tannins and a long finish.
Signatures of Doolhof Malbec 2009. Malbec is a signature variety for this new winery and luxury guesthouse in the Bovlei valley located below Bainskloof Pass. A winner of double gold medals on domestic and international wine shows, the Malbec is juicy and voluptuous with flavours of black fruit, bluberry, eucalyptus and sandalwood.
High Constantia Malbec 2006. Situated near the gates of Groot Constantia, this family farm bottled its first wines in 2000. Ripe fruit flavours of plums and blackberry, tight tannins and an earthy character make for a Malbec with a dark, almost black colour with cassis, Christmas cake
La Vierge Nymphomane Red Blend 2009. This new blend from the boutique winery located high above Walker Bay explores the marriage of two Bordeaux varieties. The cassis and herbaceous character of Cabernet Sauvignon marries with the savoury red berry, fruity flesh and earthy character of Malbec in a wine with an elegant mineral core. Neethlingshof Malbec 2010. Winemaker De Wet Viljoen says of this grape’s wild, floral flavours, “It bursts with ripe black fruit layered with violets, dark chocolate and savoury rosemary. By including a portion of unwooded wine in the blend, we were able to amplify its vibrant fruit characters”.
Paul Wallace Malbec 2008. Viticulturist Paul Wallace is one of the six grape growers behind Elgin Vintners — an innovative partnership in wine from cool-climate apple country. This maiden release made from his own vineyards is a wine which brims with bright red cherry fruit and a fresh minerality typical of wines from Elgin.
Plaisir de Merle Malbec 2008. This wine won a gold medal at the Malbec International Competition 2011 in France — and was rated best wine from the southern hemisphere. Made by Niel Bester, one of the Cape’s foremost exponents of Malbec, it has ripe blackcurrant and vanilla nuances.
Raka Malbec 2009. This family winery in the foothills of the Kleinrivier Mountains near Stanford is well worth a visit. These cool-climate maritime vineyards produce acclaimed Malbec — with a bouquet of plums, roasted coffee beans and earthy, forest floor flavours with a blueberry muffin character and a plumy, salty finish. Dry and fruity in the new world style.
Vrede en Lust Mocholate Malbec 2011. This seventeenth century wine estate is a gateway to the Franschhoek Wine Valley. Malbec plays a big role in its acclaimed Boet Erasmus blend. Planted high on the Simonsberg, Malbec gets a makeover in a lightly wooded, velvety wine with enticing mocha and choc aromas and ripe black berry and cherry character.