Passionate about Pinot
Pinot Noir is the most enigmatic of grapes, writes Graham Howe
THE “heartache grape” is a passion for legendary winemaker Peter Finlayson of Bouchard Finlayson who has made 33 vintages in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley of Hermanus. At a tasting of old and new releases at Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve in the Cederberg, he argued that the great red grape of Burgundy, of all the varieties, expresses terroir, vintage and winemaker the best, making wines of elegance and longevity in cool climate areas of the Cape: Bouchard Finlayon Galpin Peak Pinot Noir 2011. This benchmark Pinot expresses the lovely floral aromas, classic red berry fruit character and delicate cherry flavours of the variety. Voted Best Red Wine at the 2012 Nedbank Green Wine Awards, it shows cool climate terroir with supple tannins and elegant balance on a creamy mid-palate. De Bos Pinot Noir Walker Bay 2012. Sourced from vineyards in the upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in the Bosman Family’s new Fairtrade label, this maiden vintage expresses the fresh red berry fruit of grapes handpicked from a highlying cool climate site. An earthy potpourri of cranberry, raspberry, cloves and nutmegs. De Grendel Op die Berg Pinot Noir 2010. Rated one of the Top 100 SA Wines, it marries grapes from two cool climate vineyards owned by the De Graff family in Ceres and the Durbanville Wine Valley. Lovely red cherry and blackberry flavours in an elegantly oaked wine with fine tannins and acid. First Sighting Pinot Noir 2010. Named after navigator Bartholomeu Diaz’ rounding of Cape Agulhas in 1487, this wine originates from Strandveld Vineyards, the most southerly winery in Africa. The cool maritime terroir of Elim creates an elegant wine with soft red berry character, fragrant spice, ripe cherry flavours and good acidity. Fryers Cove Bamboes Bay Pinot Noir 2011. Grown in a tiny vineyard planted next to the sand dunes on the west coast and made in an old crayfish shed on the pier, wines from this extreme cool climate are making waves. “Forged of the earth and tempered by the sea”, it shows earthy ripe plum, cherry, fynbos, salt and vanilla spice flavours. Haute Cabrière Pinot Noir 2009. Legendary cellar master Achim von Arnim has made the pursuit of this variety his lifework — specialising in wooded, unwooded, rosé, still and sparkling styles. Matured in oak casks which subtly enhance the intensity of the cultivar, his signature is an elegant balance of wood and (cherry and strawberry) fruit. Hoopenburg Pinot Noir 2009. Low-yield bush vines in the Simonsberg ward of Stellenbosch give classic expression to the variety in a wine with plum and mulberry flavours and a typical earthy forest floor character. Winemaker Anton Beukes has made an elegant, harmonious wine with spicy vanilla nuances and ripe tannins. Kleine Zalze Pinot Noir 2011. Sourced from vineyards in Darling and Stellenbosch, this blend captures the classic soft, juicy tannins of the variety in a fragrant, elegant wine with a typical cherry character, earthy forest floor nuances and spicy finish from 14 months in older barrels. The upfront fruity style makes it very accessible. Strandveld Vineyards Pinot Noir 2009. The red koffieklip soils of the cool climate wine ward of Elim makes wines of finesse with fynbos fragrance and dry minerality. Winemaker Conrad Vlok expresses the terroir in a classic Pinot Noir with a perfumed nose, wild strawberry, cherry and savoury flavours and ripe, spicy tannins. Krone Chardonnay/Pinot Noir 2012. Twee Jonge Gezellen (TJ) in Tulbagh is renowned for blending these two classic varieties into fine sparkling wine. This delightful new still wine combines the crisp acidity and elegance of Chardonnay with the intensity, richness and delicate red berry fruit flavours of Pinot Noir with a blush. Bouchard Finlayson Missionvale Chardonnay 2011. The sister grape of Pinot Noir is Peter Finlayson’s signature white variety — made in four wooded and unwooded styles from two sites: Crocodile’s Lair/Kaaimansgat and Missionvale. This barrel-fermented wine is rich and nutty, layered with rich citrus, peach, melon and oak vanilla flavours. Bouchard Finlayson Sans Barrique Chardonnay 2012. The unwooded Chardonnay in the lineup expresses the natural qualities of the variety with apple, peach and tangy gooseberry flavours. Sourced from 20-year-old vines situated in Kaaimansgat, the purity of citrus fruit, honeysuckle nuances and natural acidity make for delicious wine.