Un-chic backwater yields outstanding prawn curry

LA MERCY is like a side note from a Paul Theroux novel: seedy, weathered, typically subtropical in the seeming lack of desire to maintain any of the buildings, notwithstanding that most of these structures would give any architect the cold shivers. So it is with the building that houses the famed Sea Belle, which seems at some point to have served as a hotel, when the fortunes of the town were better.

Entry is through a side entrance, past missing persons posters and local Indian families with kids sporting judo tunics. Then a brag wall, with press clippings and a history of the restaurant, which is in its fourth decade. Sea Belle has a legendary status, built on its prawn curry and that its mien is so “anti-cool”.

It’s a large, open and unremarkable space, even a touch ugly, with a dance floor dissecting the middle of the hall, with disco lights for the many group and family events hosted. You dine at plastic-clothed tables, and select from plastic menus, while you sit on 1970s function-hall seats. And if you tire of the dining, there are slot machines in a back room.

The other north coast curry legend, Impulse by the Sea, looks up-market in comparison.

The menu warns that the contents of a doggy bag “may pose a health risk when consumed at a later stage”, and the drinks list is very basic; a small wine selection is help-yourself from the fridge.

A glass of water requested never came, setting the pace for languid service (at the end of the meal, I resorted to paying the bill at the cashier, who, with old-fashioned trust, asked if I had had anything else). So don’t expect snappy service — but do expect huge portions.

From the tiny starter section, I ordered a fish cake, which was fantastic: fresh and light, served on a side plate with shredded carrot and coriander. I also tried a samoosa, which was good too.

But the best was yet to come — the chicken and prawn curry, which was outstanding. Tender chicken and fresh, springy prawns in a sauce with deep and bright flavours — ordered “mild”, it had enough kick to startle the taste buds. A sambal consisted of chunks of apple, lemon and cabbage. A small salad was served too, along with a bowl of rice big enough for four. All for R99.

Yes, the menu does (curiously) offer grills (the large prawns are good), stir-fries and even pizza and pasta, but the reason to come here is curry. This is real South African regional cuisine, truly satisfying eating that effortlessly surpasses so much “finer” dining. FOR: Some of the best curries in the country.

AGAINST: Everything else.