Bartenders reveal nightcap secrets
According to legend, the point of the nightcap is to help with sleep — much like the fetching hat all good folk should don at bedtime. Which is nonsense. If you fancy a big kip, drink warm milk or something else that reminds you of being a baby. And don t add gin. A proper ’ nightcap one with enough — alcohol to subdue a horse — might help a human to pass out but it will never assist with real sleep. The term is euphemistic at best. But that is no criticism of the drink itself.
In his hilarious and essential book, A Short History of Drunkenness , Mark Forsyth argues that alcohol is the cornerstone of civilisation, and it s tricky to disagree — especially if one s had a few ’ when reading it. If we go along with Forsyth, the nightcap is the finest brick in the edifice of human history.
It is unnecessary, which is luxurious, like a Fabergé egg. It is illicit, which is fun. It s ’ rebellious, which is empowering. It is the ineffable summit, the last throw of the dice for that priceless confessional nugget, a kiss or conversation with ghosts (ancient Chinese, Egyptians, Vikings, Aztecs and Christians all associated alcohol with communing with spirits when — better to try it out than 2am, three sheets to the wind?).
There is also every chance that the final, final nightcap will spawn a hangover so ghastly that you may decide between — throwing up the next day to — be teetotal. But don t be rash. ’ First, you must remember that this affliction, for all its demonic proportions, is temporary (unless it isn t, of ’ course). Second, if this drink presents an opportunity to unburden the soul, chat with ghosts or simply find a wife, it is surely worth the gamble.
What are you having then? In the Land of the Nightcap, there are no laws, but there are preferences. If you re still sober ’ enough to taste anything, I d ’ recommend a nip of Talisker because it comes from the Isle of Skye, tastes like Skye (in my drunken imagination) and that s ’ where I would like to live. That s ’ personal. Viking warriors were fond of downing mead. Shakespeare s Falstaff liked ’ sack (sherry). Others are partial to vintage port or grappa — there s no shame in either. ’ There could be the monstrous hangover mentioned above but, if you still feel wobbly about that, you should probably buck up and get boozing.
Healthier and more refined approaches, such as sticking to one drink, are also popular, though rather miss the point.
For the highly evolved inebriate, I d recommend one ’ — ideally all of the cocktails listed below. It might be late, it might be sunrise, but it isn t ’quite time for bed.
Midnight in Italy, by Giulia Cuccurullo, Artesian, The Langham, London
The nightcap is the most important drink of the day. It is the last one, the one you will remember and it needs to put you in a good mood.
There is not really a set style for these drinks. It s all about ’ your own state of mind at the moment of having one. That s ’ why I always ask my guests what they ve done that evening, ’ before deciding what to mix.
I can make a drink strong or light but it must always include Amaro. The herbs from this type of liqueur will help you digest and relax before bed. As will the vermouth. My favourite nightcap combines both. This is a little twist on the famous Hanky Panky cocktail (gin, vermouth and Fernet), in which the bitter Cynar (an Amaro, made with herbs and plants, chiefly artichokes) replaces the Fernet, and the gin is exchanged for rye whiskey, giving your drink the body that will carry you to bed. I call it Midnight
“in Italy ”.
Ingredients:
30ml rye whiskey 30ml Italian vermouth (Carpano Antica formula works well) 10ml Cynar Method: Pour everything into a mixing glass. Add ice and stir for a few minutes. Strain in a cold coupette glass and garnish with lemon zest.
Royal Manhattan with chamomile and tarragon, by Harry Nikolaou, Rotunda Bar and Lounge, Four Seasons at Ten Trinity, London
Working my whole life behind bars, I have got used to ending the day with a drink at home — it should just be one if you want to call it a nightcap. And at work, I meet a lot of guests who want just that: one drink to help them relax and drift off to sleep.
When making a nightcap, follow a few simple rules to ensure you feel good the next morning. Two might be tempting but stick to one. Opt for a warm drink when you can it will help the muscles relax. Choose something non-acidic to avoid heartburn and indigestion at breakfast. And steer clear of caffeine you re — ’ not looking for a dance. I like a twist on the Royal Manhattan with chamomile and tarragon, which are both renowned for their relaxing properties.
Ingredients:
50ml Rémy Martin XO (VSOP should be fine as well)
● 20ml Mancino Rosso Amaranto (or any other highquality sweet vermouth)
● 10ml tarragon and chamomile tea (in every 100ml water use 2g chamomile and 0.5g tarragon)
1 dash Angostura bitters Method : Stir well together and serve in a rocks glass or martini glass with a cherry as a garnish.
Brandy Alexander, by Alessandro Palazzi, Dukes Hotel, London
The traditional nightcap was either whisky or cognac. Cheap spirits and sugary mixers should be avoided because they keep you awake and give you a hangover. I wouldn t ’ recommend mixing grape and grain, so if you had wine at dinner, I d suggest a Brandy ’ Alexander:
Ingredients:
● 30ml cognac, preferably VSOP
● 30ml creme de cacao
● 30ml single cream
● Grated nutmeg
Method: Add all of the ingredients into a cocktail shaker, shake vigorously and strain into a frozen cocktail glass. Garnish with either grated nutmeg or chocolate.
Manhattan with a twist
I d also make a case for my twist ’ on the Manhattan. It used to be only made with Canadian Club. But while I was working at the Georges V in Paris, I asked a customer if I could make him a Manhattan my way. I substituted the Canadian Club with bourbon and it worked — so well it became my signature nightcap.
Ingredients:
● Two drops of Angostura
● 25ml red vermouth
● 50ml bourbon
● A teaspoon of Griottines cherry syrup
Method: Add everything into a mixing glass and stir vigorously. Strain into a frozen cocktail glass and serve either straight up or on the rocks. Garnish with two Griottines cherries and squeeze the zest of an organic orange.
Cacao, by Monica Berg, Tayer + Elementary, London
At the end of a long day, there is something so very rewarding about taking a moment and enjoying a nightcap. It s more ’ than just a drink it s the luxury — ’ of time for myself and a chance to reflect on the day.
I have never been one to make elaborate drinks at home I don t even keep any bar ’ tools. On the other hand, my freezer is well stocked with my favourite ice.
My choice of nightcap depends on how I feel, but I am also a creature of habit. Some days, I ll have a glass of wine. If I ’ fancy something stronger, our Tayer RTD Sandalwood Martini. I love martinis in general.
For me, the perfect nightcap should be strong but not too heavy, and it must have character. As a Norwegian, I have a (very) soft spot for aquavit, which has lots of botanical complexity and depth of flavour, without being cloying or too rich.
I often mix two different spirits to create interesting layers. Flavours should linger and develop throughout and the first sip must be as intriguing as the last. It should be potent enough to celebrate a good day or to erase a bad one.
Here, I have blended aquavit with Seven Tails XO brandy — which itself is a blend of French brandy, cognac and Armagnac plus a bit of De Kuyper Dutch Cacao for sweetness and warmth. To brighten it up ever so slightly, I have added a dash of Peychaud s Bitters, which ’ always works well with aged spirits.
Ingredients:
● 35ml Seven Tails XO brandy
● 15ml Linie Aquavit
● 10ml De Kuyper Dutch Cacao1
● Dash of Peychaud s Bitters
’ Method: Stir on ice. Glass: rocks glass. Ice: large ice cube. / © The Financial Times 2020