Business Day

Booming bakeries a sign of Venezuela’ s recovery

- Mayela Armas and Keren Torres Caracas

After years of struggle, veteran bakeries in Venezuela’s capital, Caracas, are cooking up a variety of delectable­s, in the latest sign that the slight economic boost is reviving some familyowne­d small businesses.

Numerous old-style bakeries and dessert shops in the country’s main cities struggled two years ago to produce a variety of products due to a scarcity of ingredient­s. Now they are offering ever more baked goods. Baguettes, rolls and loaves of local and European-style breads fill previously bare bakeries, while multicolou­red tarts and cakes glisten on shelves now that once scarce fruits during the worst of Venezuela’s crisis are more readily available.

The recovery at bakeries and pastry shops, traditiona­l businesses which were among the hardest hit by the country’s virtual economic collapse as consumers cut back on luxury goods due to hyperinfla­tion, is yet another indication of the incipient economic recovery.

Since 2019, when President Nicolas Maduro decided to relax foreign currency controls as sanctions affected oil earnings, the economy has benefited from much-needed oxygen brought by de facto dollarisat­ion.

Dollarisat­ion meant freedom from the troughs and peaks of Venezuela’s local currency, extra cash for spending in some sectors, and greater ease for importing certain ingredient­s, such as wheat flour.

While bakeries are not yet as prosperous as 10 years ago, Andres Kerese and his family — owners of one of Caracas’s oldest bakery chains — are seizing the opportunit­y now afforded by increased use of the dollar.

Production “fell and now it’s growing a bit. Customers who stopped making orders are returning,” Kerese told Reuters on the terrace of one of his family’s bakeries, which, in addition to desserts and bread, offers lunch.

Processing and distributi­on of wheat flour was under state control for years and supplies were intermitte­nt, leading to lower production, while Venezuelan­s saw bread rationed.

“Bakeries are seeing improvemen­ts because the government is not intervenin­g in flour distributi­on and the dollarisat­ion has been a big help, at least in large cities,” said Luis Nunes, director of the country’s federation of bakeries, which represents 8,000 businesses.

Venezuela imports wheat flour for processing. While processing of flour fell 10% three years ago, output grew 4.4% between December 2021 and August 2022, according to the Venezuelan chamber of foodstuffs.

While hundreds of bakeries had closed by the nadir of Venezuela’s economic collapse, those that struggled are now seeing a slight respite, business owners told Reuters, though improvemen­ts are financed via their own funds due to a lack of available loans.

“Clients have asked us to reinvent ourselves, to expand our premises,” said Viviane Caloni, who owns a pastry shop in north Caracas, which has recently expanded to include a coffee shop. “People go out more for a coffee and to buy something sweet,” he said.

Despite the county’s economic improvemen­t, low salaries remain a hurdle for bakeries looking to grow. A coffee in a typical bakery costs at least $1.50, while the cheapest bread sells for $1. However, in a country where the minimum wage is equivalent to $12 a month, this continues to put cakes and cookies out of reach for many.

BAKERIES ARE SEEING IMPROVEMEN­TS BECAUSE THE GOVERNMENT IS NOT INTERVENIN­G IN FLOUR DISTRIBUTI­ON [ANYMORE]

Luis Nunes Associatio­n of bakeries director

 ?? /Reuters ?? Slice of the pie: A customer eats a pastry at a bakery, in Caracas, Venezuela. The economy has benefited from dollarisat­ion, which has helped imports of ingredient­s such as wheat flour.
/Reuters Slice of the pie: A customer eats a pastry at a bakery, in Caracas, Venezuela. The economy has benefited from dollarisat­ion, which has helped imports of ingredient­s such as wheat flour.

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