Kathrada opens island’s gates to tourism leaders
Regales them with a wealth of stories about the prison’s harsh daily rituals
AHMED Kathrada spent 18 years confined to the Robben Island Maximum Security Prison but it hasn’t stopped him returning to the island. Yesterday he made his 300th trip – this time as a guide for two world leaders in the tourism industry.
Taleb Rifai, secretary-general of the UN World Tourism Organisation, and David Scowsill, president and chief executive of the World Travel and Tourism Council, are in the country for a symposium on bringing about peace through tourism.
They visited Cape Town for two days to take in some of its tourist gems, including Robben Island and eco marvel Hotel Verde, with Kirstenbosch on the itinerary today.
Along with a wealth of stories that brought back the once-harsh daily rituals of the now slick and repainted prison, Kathrada held the key to open up two tiny spaces of massive historical importance – his own cell and Nelson Mandela’s.
Standing inside Mandela’s cell, he said human dignity was non-negotiable for the prisoners.
Right from the beginning of their life sentences in 1964, the political prisoners made it clear they would not allow the warders to work them to death.
“We said we would only do as much work as we were able to do – not what they wanted us to do,” he said.
“Right from the start, you have to protect your dignity as human beings.”
Kathrada remembered the desperation for news that the inmates felt after being isolated for years and forbidden to read newspapers.
“We smuggled newspapers in, there was blackmail, theft – we used every method,” he said with a cheeky smile.
“We got caught, we were punished, but we had to do it.”
One day during a church service, an inmate offered to lead the prayers.
He asked everybody to close their eyes and bow their heads.
As soon as the warders and prisoners were solemnly in prayer, an inmate crept forward to snatch the Sunday Times out of the priest’s briefcase.
“I was head of illegal communications,” Kathrada said.
It warranted a nostalgic chuckle.
But the other biggest longing of the lifeterm political prisoners was the company of children. As Kathrada inserted the giant metal key into the gate on his old cell – number 14, just down the corridor from Mandela’s – he explained how he used to push a bench against the wall and pile blankets on top of it so he could see through the window slit.
“I was born in the countryside, so I loved to see animals,” he said. But even more delightful than watching the birds and buck was the odd glimpse of a child.
“I would watch for hours, in the hope of seeing a warder and his children go down the road to the harbour.”
Now, Kathrada is a celebrity on the island, and all the staff stop to hug him along the pathways.
“The very first time I came back to the island (after being released) was traumatic. I couldn’t believe I spent 18 years of my life here,” he said.
“But now it’s routine. My staff went through my diary and counted: this is my 300th trip.”
THE VERY FIRST TIME I CAME BACK TO THE ISLAND (AFTER BEING RELEASED) WAS TRAUMATIC. I COULDN’T BELIEVE I SPENT 18 YEARS OF MY LIFE HERE