OPEN DOOR WELCOME
THE decor at Open Door at Constantia Uitsig is, in a word, charming. Its antique appeal boasts a modern twist. Clustered bands of door handles, brass numbers and knockers extending either side of a welcoming fireplace immediately catch the eye, and invite you to explore further. An ordered collection of vintage Yale locks adorn one wall, and fittingly a large pair of wooden doors are positioned, never closed, at the entrance.
Those who frequented The River Café, the previous eatery to occupy the space, will be fascinated by the changes, including a brand new entrance. Open Door is the latest project of restaurateur and sommelier Neil Grant and business partner Barry Engelbrecht of Burrata and Bocca fame.
The building began its life as a school, and that history has been referenced in charming touches like a sign on an office door that states “Headmaster’s Office” and a collection of polished trophies and old class photos.
In addition to the lounge terrace which will be sublime in summer, the inviting indoor dining room with the fireplace, and the classy art deco-inspired bar, there are also plans to open a breakfast area in a room pooled with crisp sunlight.
Together with a group of fellow foodies I was invited to sample some of what the menu has to offer at the “kitchen table” with perfect views into the open plan kitchen.
Unlike Burrata and Bocca, the modern contemporary menu at Open Door, designed by executive chef Annemarie Steenkamp, doesn’t have its roots in Italy. While RICH: Venison sirloin with orange sweet potato, puy lentils, pickled cucumber and cranberry jus. there’s also a café menu of lighter meals, and dishes for kids, available, we were there to explore Steenkamp’s more sophisticated offerings.
If the stylish décor, and mouth watering aromas wafting across from the kitchen weren’t enough to convince us that Open Door is something special, then the arrival of the first dish certainly was. The chef ’s attention to detail when it comes to plating, colour and texture is exquisite.
My roasted pumpkin with curried fritters, seed crumble, buttermilk labne and ginger was simply gorgeous, and took the idea of fritters to a completely superior level. The ginger added a pleasing layer of flavour, the vermicellistyle fritters were a delight and the seed crumble leant the whole dish a subtly nutty twist.
Another winner on the starter menu was the poached crayfish tail with bisque, kale, parsnip puree and preserved lemon.
I often suffer from “food envy” when it comes to mains, but this time there was simply no contest. The beetroot risotto with goats’ cheese, fennel and orange peel was a riot of colour and flavour, and even the satisfied groans of my fellow diners over their own choices wouldn’t convince me that I’d picked anything other than a winner. Each grain was cooked to perfection, the flavours earthy and the portion generous. The colours were cheerful and the baby beetroots succulent and sweet. Definitely a dish to return for. I enjoyed it with the Simelia Merlot 2013 from Wellington, with its pleasing softness and fruity aftertaste – a perfect wintery wine.
As a sommelier, Grant takes the wine list very seriously, and even designed his own wine cellar, which takes pride of place in the bar area. Not only optimally functional, the angled shelves perfectly complement the space.
Other mains that caught my eye were the open lasagne with mushrooms, vichyssoise and crispy parmesan, which my neighbour at the table said hit all the right comfort food notes, or the venison loin with orange sweet potato, puy lentils, pickled cucumber and cranberry jus in vibrant autumnal shades.
The dessert menu had me torn. I’d usually have gone for the dark chocolate torte, or the baked cheesecake with lemongrass foam, coconut soil and sour cream; but something about the buttermilk mousse with lime parfait, coriander emulsion and rye crumble beckoned to me.
Based on the magnificent presentation and unique spin Steenkamp and her team gave the other dishes, I was not at all surprised that my dessert wound up being my favourite dish of the day. Tart citrus flavours combined perfectly with the light crunch of the rye crumble and luxuriously creamy mousse.
021 974 3010, www.opendoor restaurant.co.za