NATURE’S HEART
WE REALISED we’d forgotten braai fuel as we headed from Howick toward Karkloof Nature Reserve, then saw a roadside sign. R40 a bag? Eish! Double eish when we saw the size of the bag. Jenny in the back got very cosy for the rest of the trip to Rockwood Forest Lodge in Karkloof Nature Reserve.
Arriving at Rockwood offices, we were met by Jabu Dlamini. She gave us keys and off we went, enjoying the surroundings so much that we (me) weren’t paying attention and – oh dear – signs saying “Easier way” soon tested the 4x4 capabilities of my vehicle, until we found ourselves at a fence with a wooden up-and-over. We were on one of many MTB trails.
After tricky backtracking, a few humps and streams, we eventually arrived in a leafy riverside glade. We were immediately seduced by the sun-dappled deck, right above a river, of the double storey rustic log retreat and made preparations to use the impressive Big Green Egg – so much more than just a braai.
Talk about bringing coals to Newcastle. The farm Spitzkop, which owns the lodge, produces wattle for firewood, which was piled high. Rockwood Forest Lodge sleeps six (eight at a pinch) in three bedrooms with three bathrooms. Large windows without burglar bars afford lovely forest views, the babbling water is a constant soundtrack for relaxation in the greenish light while, best of all perhaps, there is no cellphone reception (though there is DStv, a Blu-ray player and some discs and an iPod docking station/music system). And no one – except Jabu in the morning – is going to disturb you. If you don’t have a 4x4, Jabu will ferry you from the office.
At almost every far-flung place I’ve been there’s someone staying alongside, so this kind of privacy is special. One wondered about the options. Rockwood Forest Lodge would be an ideal meditation retreat, naturists could let it all hang out, or a family enjoy a happy rendezvous. Methinks the trees may have many a party story to tell.
We appreciated touches one doesn’t usually find in self-catering spots, bearing in mind it’s very far to go if you’ve forgotten something – cooking oil, foil, good filter coffee – even a litre of milk. If you’d rather be a bit closer to civilisation, cosy Rockwood Farm Cottage or large, stylish Rockwood Farm House, 25m apart on the farm, looked very nice indeed.
If noonoos bug you, the forest is not for you. On a forest walk the lead hiker does a Gandalf impersonation, waving a staff to clear spiders’ webs, while the supplied Peaceful Sleep came in handy too. Oddly enough, almost no mozzies, so we only used it on our walks. Apart from a shortish hike to Goudini Falls 1 and 2, we swam in a lovely pool about 20m upstream from the lodge and checked out the dams, well stocked with rainbow and brown trout.
Bring your rods and grab a life jacket from the office if using one of the canoes. We also negotiated the long, winding, scenic 4x4 road to the eco-friendly Mountain Lodge, noting two lovely swimming spots at weirs on the way. If you alert the staff they will open a gate for 4x4 access to the nearby and highly recommended Karkloof Canopy Tour.
The Canopy Tour is a real treat, with wonderful views over the Karkloof Valley from the uppermost platform and zipline and thrilling staggered descents through the canopies of the indigenous forest. Here you can hope to spot the same elusive bird species to be found near the lodge, as well as Samango monkeys. Afterward, enjoy a supplied light meal and check out the photos from your experience, which you can buy on a disc.
The wind was up in a big way when out driving but back at the Forest Lodge it was calm, though we watched clouds rushing one way and mist the other, colliding with the slopes high above and cooling sufficiently to warrant a fire in the comfy lounge, where we sat gazing at the bush TV afforded by the large plate glass window and floodlights in the glade, where owls swooped to catch prey. We hated leaving.
Call 0315024043 or visit www. rockwood.co.za.
The Canopy Tour is a real treat, with great views over the Karkloof Valley