Let the good times bubble

THERE are those who brag about the bubbly they’ve drunk, dropping luxury brand names as easily as they forked out hundreds of rand to buy them.

Everyone seems to have a favourite. Some swear by Krug or Veuve Clicquot, others Dom Pérignon, Armand de Brignac or Moët & Chandon.

South Africans love their bubblies – whether Méthode Cap Classique, Italian Prosecco or Trentodoc, Spain’s Cava or, of course, the ultimate, French Champagne. Sparkling wine is so popular that people argue on social media about what qualifies as Champagne (besides the French brands) and why one brand is better than another.

That’s probably why Moët’s cellar master, Benoît Gouez, is in this country promoting the brand’s Grand Vintage 2009 and award-winning MCIII NV, named the best Champagne of 2017 by Fine Champagne.

Gouez also aims to find out more about our Champagne tastes. He has been Moët’s cellar master since 2005. We met at the Oyster Box Hotel in uMhlanga to discuss the popularity of bubblies and food pairings, among other things.

Moët & Chandon is a best-seller. What do you think makes it so appealing?

Moët has the value of being authentic. It has roots, a legacy, while also being contemporary. Its positioning as a rich and exciting brand with a long history and ability to reinvent itself to be relevant are what consumers like. They know the brand will always deliver and there’s always a twist to our products.

Innovation is important, as we have seen with our Ice Imperial, which was created simply to be enjoyed with ice. It was a revolution in Champagne – the perfect summer beverage.

As part of the LVMH conglomerate, the brand is synonymous with glamour and success, not so?

Champagne, especially Moët, was associated early in its history with kings and the royal court… successful people. It has become the drink of choice. We see our wines used in Hollywood, on Formula 1 podiums, christening boats and at celebrations.

It has become a symbol of celebration. When people want to create new moments and experiences with quality and elegance, they think of Moët.

How has bubbly evolved from a celebratory drink to a daily must-have like wine?

Champagne is a great wine. It may be special wine, but it’s still a wine. Once people realise that, they will see that it’s also great for enjoying with food.

It’s not just for a party or celebration; it’s a super aperitif and helps to prepare your palate for the next course.

I’ve seen in South Africa over the past week how consumers have realised there’s more to the vintages we have and how different they are.

They are opening up to seeing that every Champagne is distinctive.

Something I’ve also started to see in South Africa is how consumers are now really interested in the vintages and I’ve been surprised by the interest and how it goes beyond taste to a genuine desire to know more.

Which Imperials sell well here?

Our Brut and Nectar Imperials are equally successful. Just behind are the Rosé and Ice Imperial. Our vintages are still gaining traction.

They are not confined to the connoisseur, but are also for those who will enjoy the process of making them – they require education and interest to be understood.

How would you pair Champagne with food?

Each Champagne in our range has its own profile and so is best paired with particular styles of food.

Brut Champagne (low sugar) has more acidity, some bitterness, a little sweetness and a bit of umami (savoury).

The only primary sense Champagne doesn’t have is saltiness, so I believe that is the key to pairing food with Champagne.

Oysters, caviar, salty cheese go well with Champagne.

Our Grand Vintage 2009, which has an accomplished maturity and delicate richness, should be paired with food such as sea bass and poultry – the more savoury served with a creamy sauce.

You can really enjoy our 2009 vintage as you would a great white wine.

Our Nectar Imperial calls for richness; it goes well with desserts and rich, spicy food. The nice, clean acidity moderates the spiciness.

When did you first have Champagne and what was your reaction?

I don’t remember. In France, Champagne and wine are part of the culture. We tend to educate our children about them for them to get used to it, to integrate it and learn to drink responsibly.

My son is 16. When he was one day old, I gave him a drop of Champagne. He has his own small glass for tasting.

The Ice Imperial has been popular in the past few years, but it’s not well known. Are more quantities planned for the summer?

We’ve only had it for six years and we really want to develop it in the proper way. It’s a summer drink to be enjoyed outside. We produce more every year; we have had to. But it’s not easy. We need special grapes – a certain pinot noir and a special chardonnay for that fine taste.