Who says seafood is for summer? Dig into a warming bowl of SLOW-ROASTED HAKE, brothy SALMON SOBA or creamyprawn RISOTTO and forget the winter chill
Sesame Salmon Donabe Serves 4
2 pieces kombu, 13x10cm each 170g dried soba noodles 2t toasted sesame oil, plus more
4 cups bonito flakes
1 bunch spring onions
1/3 cup mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)
2T soy sauce kosher salt
1 skinless salmon fillet (450g) 2 small turnips, trimmed,
scrubbed, thinly sliced
1 small daikon, peeled,
170g enoki mushrooms, trimmed toasted sesame seeds, to serve
1. Combine kombu and 41/2 cups cold water in a medium saucepan. Let sit until kombu is pliable, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cold water. Shake off excess water and toss noodles in a medium bowl with 2t oil. Divide among serving bowls and set aside.
3. Bring kombu mixture to a boil over medium heat, then immediately remove pan from heat. Using tongs, lift out kombu from broth and discard. Add bonito flakes to broth and stir once to moisten. Bring to a simmer then reduce heat and simmer very gently, 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to rest, 15 minutes. Strain dashi through a fine sieve into a large heatproof measuring bowl; discard solids. (You should have about 4 cups.) 4. While the dashi is infusing, remove the dark green tops of the spring onions from the white bulbs. Thinly slice tops and set aside for serving. Slice bulbs on a diagonal into 1.3cm pieces; set aside. 5. Pour dashi into a large donabe or skillet and add mirin and soy sauce; season with salt. Place fish in the centre of the skillet and arrange turnips, daikon, mushrooms and reserved spring onion bulbs around fish. Heat over low until liquid is steaming but not bubbling (simmering will make the liquid cloudy; reduce the heat if needed). Cook until fish looks opaque all across the surface, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest, 5 minutes. 6. To serve, sprinkle sesame seeds and reserved spring onion tops over fish and veg, and drizzle more oil over. Break fish into pieces and divide among reserved noodle bowls. Ladle vegetables and dashi over.
Do ahead: Dashi can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Slow-roasted Hake with Peppers and Capers Serves 4
6 medium red, orange, and/or yellow peppers
6T extra-virgin olive oil kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 garlic cloves, smashed 2T sherry vinegar or redwine vinegar
1t crushed chilli flakes
1 skinless hake fillet (700g) 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced 1/4 cup chopped parsley 2T drained capers country-style bread, to serve
1. Place racks in centre and top-most positions of oven; heat the grill. Cut peppers in half lengthwise and remove stems, ribs and seeds; discard. Place peppers on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 3T oil; season with salt and black pepper. Toss to coat, then turn cut side down and grill on top rack, turning baking sheet front to back halfway through, until skins are blackened all over,
15 to 20 minutes. 2. Transfer peppers along with oil and juices on baking sheet to a large bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Allow to sit 10 minutes to steam, which will loosen their skins. Reduce oven temperature to 150°C. 3. Uncover peppers and peel away charred skin from flesh (don’t worry about getting every last bit); discard. Tear flesh into 1.3cm strips and place in a shallow 2.8-litre baking dish along with all the accumulated juices in the bowl. Add garlic, vinegar and chilli flakes and toss well to combine. Taste and season with more salt. 4. Nestle hake into pepper mixture, drizzle with 2T oil, and season with salt and black pepper.
Roast on centre rack until flesh is opaque and flakes easily when pressed, 25 to 30 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, toss onion, parsley, capers and remaining 1T oil in a small bowl; season with salt. 6. Top fish
with onion mixture and serve with bread. Do ahead: Peppers can be grilled 1 day ahead. Peel and allow to cool; cover and chill. Creamy Prawn Risotto with Mascarpone Serves 8
4T extra-virgin olive oil
450g head-on prawns, shells and heads removed and reserved, prawns cut into 2.5cm pieces 2T tomato paste
2/3 cup dry white wine
1 medium carrot, scrubbed, halved crosswise
1 celery stalk, halved crosswise 6 large sprigs thyme
1t whole black peppercorns 2 large onions, peeled, halved through root end
1 head of garlic, cloves separated, peeled kosher salt
11/2 cups arborio rice freshly ground black pepper 1 lemon
2T unsalted butter
170g mascarpone, room temperature
2T thinly sliced chives
1. Heat 2T oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Add prawn heads and shells and cook, stirring occasionally, until shells and oil are bright red and shells are very fragrant, 5 to 8 minutes. Use a masher to press down firmly on heads to release their juices. Stir in tomato paste and cook until it starts to brown and stick to bottom of pot, about 1 minute. Add 1/3 cup wine and cook, scraping up brown bits, until almost completely evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add carrot, celery, thyme sprigs, peppercorns, 2 onion halves, all but 4 garlic cloves and 8 cups water. Add a generous pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until stock is reduced by a quarter and very fragrant, 60 to 70 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, finely chop remaining onion and garlic. 3. Remove stock from heat and strain into a medium saucepan; discard solids. (You should have about 6 cups.)
Taste and season lightly with salt. Keep warm over low heat.
4. Heat remaining 2T oil in a large heavy pot over medium. Add chopped onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until translucent and softened, about 5 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring often, until grains are almost entirely translucent and starting to stick to bottom of pot, about 3 minutes. Stir in remaining 1/3 cup wine and cook, stirring, until wine is almost completely evaporated. Ladle in about 1 cup warm stock and cook, stirring, until it is absorbed. Repeat, adding more stock as each addition is absorbed, until rice is tender, 25 to 30 minutes. The risotto should be loose and creamy, but thick enough that you can see bottom of pot when stirring; if you run out of stock before rice is tender, add a 1/4 cup of water at a time until rice is cooked. Season with salt and pepper and stir in prawns. Cook, stirring, until prawns are cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and finely grate in lemon zest. Add butter and 113g mascarpone; stir until incorporated. 5. Spoon risotto onto warmed plates and dollop remaining mascarpone; top with chives. Cut lemon into wedges and serve alongside. Do ahead:
Stock can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill, or freeze 1 month ahead.
If you can’t find head-on prawns, buy an extra 230g large shell-on prawns and add to the stock along with the shells from the initial 450g. Creamy Prawn Risotto with Mascarpone