Isinuka, a spring with magical healing powers
HISTORY is littered with stories of mineral springs, such as the Roman baths in England, and their remarkable restorative powers.
The Eastern Cape has its very own mineral spring, where for many years traditional folk have bathed, detoxed and restored their bodies and cleansed their souls.
While the Wild Coast is famous for the picturesque village of Port St Johns, few tourists know about Isinuka, a sulphur spring and mud baths, about 20km west of the town.
A Saturday Dispatch team recently spent a day at Isinuka, treasured by locals and those city folk in the know, for its magical healing powers. The name Isinuka means the “with a smell”, largely due to the smell of the sulphur in the water.
The spring water is used to treat a variety of ills. People drink it to repair muscle sprains, cure skin ailments, for inner cleansing and favour the mud baths for spiritual healing.
Hundreds of litres of water is drawn from this spring each month as people continue their treatment at home. Reaching the spring, which bubbles out high on a hilltop, needs lots of focus and balance as visitors have to scale a large rock face using a fig tree as an improvised staircase.
Port St John’s mayor Mnyamezeli Mangqo said the Isinuka Sulphur Spring is a magical healing place that attracts people from all over South Africa and abroad.
“It has long been considered a sacred source. It is believed to possess some powerful qualities and spiritual powers for curing all sorts of ailments,” said Mangqo.
He added: “People believe Isinuka heals backache, headaches, stomach as well as skin ailments and a host of other conditions. There is no scientific proof of this, it’s just a general belief. Scores of people claim to have been helped by Isinuka.” Isinuka has five features:
Gas fumes, which come up from underground;
A murky bathing pond and cleansing mud; Clear drinking water; A new bathing place at the foot of this mountain; and
White clay found in the surrounding caves.
The well emits a pungent gas and because of this the area is called eviksini or “vicks”. Visitors to Isinuka believe by inhaling the gas their headaches, backaches and other aches and pains can be cured.
Everyday locals as well as visitors – poor and rich, educated and illiterate – drive through the forest in their flashy cars and on foot, to reach the spring, believing the sacred spot has healing powers.
Jackson Nombe and his wife Andiswa, both 55 from Ngqeleni, said they have been visiting this place from a young age.
“This is a place the Eastern Cape should be proud of. Isinuka has been here for many years and is well-known. There are people who travel from Swaziland to be here for the waters’ healing powers,” said Nombe.
But what makes this place so unique, what makes it attractive to thousands every year?
“You won’t find anything quite like it anywhere in the world, and it is all free. Black and white, rich and poor, find solace here. It is the direct healing hand of God Himself,” said Sazi Ntshunte, 78, who has been visiting since 1990.
Ntshunte has built himself a small shack near the springs, where he lives and sells plastic containers to visitors wanting to leave with some spring water.
Port St Johns resident and businessman John Costello said: “Isinuka has been there for thousands of years and many claim to have found healing on it.
“The site attracts backpackers who like to go and watch it and others smear their bodies with the mud.”
Mayor Mangqo said the municipality was not keen on developing the area as it did not want to interfere with its sacredness.
“But there is a study currently under way to see if we can develop houses near the site. We have engaged human settlements and are bringing on board a tertiary institution for this study.
“Two years from now we will be in a better position to talk [about future plans for the area],” he said.
The royal house of AmaMpondo described Isinuka as “the pride of the nation”.
“We are proud and privileged to have this gift from God.
“It is a free healing service directly from God, unlike other services where you have to consult a man or woman. Nobody but God owns Isinuka.
“There are even claims it helps women conceive,” said Prince Mlamli Ndamase, spokesman of Western Mpondoland King Ndamase Ndamase.
While many believe in the healing powers of Isinuka, there are plenty who turn to faith healers when other avenues fail, and the Eastern Cape is rich with those claiming to have “healing powers”.
The region’s most famous healer was herbalist Khotso Sethuntsa, renowned and feared throughout South Africa and beyond – even after his death.