Surfer beats odds to win third place
AN EAST London photographer who kept on surfing despite losing his leg in a motorbike accident has won a bronze medal at the World Adaptive Surfing Championships.
“My immediate thought was, would I ever surf again,” 40-year-old JP Veaudry admitted yesterday.
“I mean, how can you surf when you’re missing a leg?”
Despite his initial doubts, after 28 years of surfing before his crash in May 2009, the lure of the ocean proved too strong. His first surf came just five months after the accident, once his amputation had healed and he was fitted out with a prosthetic leg.
“I put a lot of pressure on myself when I went back into the water for the very first time.
“I had no idea whether or not I’d be able to stand, but I still invited a lot of people, friends, media and photographers to witness the event.”
Veaudry said by doing that he had no choice but to follow through and succeed with his dream to stand up and surf again.
“I was fortunate to stand up on my very first wave.”
Hooked again, he was soon back in the water and surfing at every opportunity.
“I try and surf every day; it’s the best way to start the day and motivates me for the rest of it.”
Fast forward six years and Veaudry came within a whisker of realising his dream of winning the World Adaptive Surfing Championships in California last week with his third-place finish.
“Even though I am happy with this result, it’s a little frustrating.”
Although Veaudry had the best scores leading up to the final and even beat the surfer who placed second overall in his semifinal, he had to settle for third in the end.
“I battled to find decent waves in the final.”
Despite having no earlier dreams of surfing in a world championship, Veaudry hopes one day to win the world championships – and if he doesn’t, he’ll keep riding the waves anyway.
“The sea is my happy place, my church if you will. It’s a place to get away from it all and meditate.”
He said losing his leg taught him to consider others with their struggles and disabilities.
“Life can be short, so value what you have and don’t harp on what you don’t. Appreciate every precious minute on this planet, set goals for yourself and fulfil your dreams.”
He joked that his wife Gabriela and 15-month daughter Amelia were thrilled to have him back, “even though I think it was to change nappies”.
“We all have disabilities, be they mental, financial, marital – mine happen to be physical. We just need to do our utmost to overcome them – while having fun at the same time.” —