Delightful week exploring Wild Coast’s spectacular waterfalls

THERE are not many parts of South Africa that match the Transkei Wild Coast for beauty, mood, tranquillity, isolation and a few more besides, where one can spend a holiday and return home feeling recharged and ready to go again.

The Chiels went to Mbotyi last week to celebrate a couple of family birthdays, special ones. We were as many as 26-strong for the party last Saturday night – maybe more; I gave up counting – and accommodation was scattered. A good part of the “crowd” stayed in a delightful modern house; about the same number were in Mbotyi River Lodge; three more in a bungalow; and the same again in the community campsite.

Mrs C and I spent three nights in the house, and the last three at the hotel which served dinner, bed and breakfast for residents, while most of us got together at the house for a slap-up lunch and perhaps a gin and tonic before an afternoon nap.

Our main daily activities were walking and exploring local waterfalls and doing a bit of fishing, but rain and drizzle some of the time did put a damper on proceedings a bit.

The waterfalls we visited by road included Fraser’s a few kilometres inland from the top of the escarpment/pass – not too inspiring, but maybe because very little water was flowing over it.

From there we headed further inland through the deserted Magwa tea estate on our way to Magwa falls … and wow (with a capital W) … I believe for solitude, atmosphere and beauty they must rate among the top five or so I’ve seen in South Africa.

With a 100-metre drop into a narrow gorge (about 100m across) they really are awesome. It is well worth a visit. There are other falls further north along the coast too … the iconic Waterfall Bluff drops into the sea at Msikaba and is probably just as spectacular as Magwa.

Fishing was not a success. We caught nothing. But who cares, there is more to fishing than, well, catching fish. It’s getting bait – plenty of sand prawn in the river at Mbotyi; it’s choosing a likely casting spot; it’s watching the waves and movement of the water; it’s cursing the tiddlers that steal your bait and you don’t even feel them. It’s just good to be standing next to the ocean and giving your mind the freedom to wander.

We had a superb birthday dinner on Saturday night – that’s seafood night at many Wild Coast hotels – and all the staff did us proud. A great bunch. Tables were set so that we could all communicate; two cakes were brought in for the birthday couple to blow out the candles; balloons around pillars added to the atmosphere; and with eight bottles of champagne and even more wine, dancing to the music and songs of an artiste “imported” from Amanzimtoti, the party rocked and rolled.

Hotel managers Blaine Wegner and Richard Stone, you were stars.

For anyone heading that way in future, there was good news in the Daily Dispatch on Wednesday: Wild Coast toll road on track. Well, not so good for the next few years, I’m sure. Actually I’d say work on the road is already in full swing. Starting with a stop/go down the Kei Cuttings, blasting operations on the N2 between Dutywa and Mthatha, major earth moving activity and lots and lots of other work already in progress from there to Port St Johns, it’s down to business.

What’s more some of our birthday group drove down the South Coast and got to us via Bizana and Flagstaff. They had a terrible journey with many stop/go interruptions, and to get back decided to go left at Flagstaff and return via Kokstad which turned out to be the right decision.

And let’s face it, the R61 near Lusikisiki, although without any major roadworks, is like driving on the back of a writhing snake – it’s certainly not national road standard.

I loved the signs we spotted on the way home between Lusikisiki and Port St Johns. The first read: “…133 bends before Superspar.” Then a little further: “…you are now half way, only 68 more bends to go.” I liked the humour. Well done, Spar.

Surely the new N2 toll road won’t follow that route. In fact, maps of the proposed road show a turnoff somewhere near Tombo to cross a new bridge higher up the Mzimvubu River than the current one near Port St Johns, and it will head from there to Lusikisiki. We live in interesting times. —