Decoding skincare science
Don’t know your retinol from your retin-A ? Here are some answers.
Every year, multiple trends emerge, each promising to redefine the beauty industry. While there are many ingredients in beauty products – be they natural, organic or synthetic – understanding what they are and how they may or may not affect your skin is important. Focusing on ingredients found in moisturisers, day creams, night creams, serums and masks, here is our guide to the latest buzzwords in skincare.
Alpha hydroxy acid
More commonly referred to as AHAs, alpha hydroxy acids have recently gained popularity in over-the-counter skincare products.
Lactic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, glycolic acid and citric acid all form part of the AHA family and each acid in the alpha hydroxy group is derived from either plants or fruit – malic acid is extracted from apples, while glycolic and mandelic acid are derived from almonds and citric acid from citrus fruit. They are said to increase cellular turnover through the exfoliation of dead skin cells that sit on the surface of the skin.
In some cases, AHAs can make the skin extra sensitive to sunlight and it is recommended to wear a broad spectrum (blocking both UVA and UVB rays) sunscreen daily. In addition, highly sensitive skin types could find their skin becoming irritated as a result of the powerful exfoliation of the top layer of skin.
Hyaluronic acid
As we age, our skin’s ability to produce this moisturising molecule decreases and it loses some of its plump and elasticity.
“Hyaluronic acid is the most powerful moisturising molecule found in our bodies. It is produced by the same cells that produce collagen, and as we age we produce less of it, which makes our skin become dryer and less plump as we age,” explains Dr Cara Duminy, skincare specialist and owner of Cape Aesthetics.
Dr Vanessa Lapiner, a South African dermatologist, adds that hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning that it draws water into the skin; it can help give a refreshed appearance to skin and smooth fine lines. Another benefit, says Lapiner, is that hyaluronic acid has a high safety profile and can be tolerated by most skin types with very low risk of any undesirable reactions.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid, a chemical produced from fungi, such as yeasts, moulds and mushrooms, is said to combat pigmentation thanks to the effect it has on the skin’s ability to produce melanin, a naturally occurring pigment responsible for the colour of our eyes, hair and skin.
Vitamin A
Aesthetic medical practitioner Dr Alek Nikolic says vitamin A, when applied topically – think moisturiser, face cream or serum – is often called a “superhero” ingredient for the skin. He says it has many benefits, including reducing pore size, improving the texture with visual and tactile softening, increasing collagen and elastin production, and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
Retinol
Retinol is a natural form of vitamin A and is found in many over-the-counter cosmeceutical products – moisturisers, eye creams, day and night creams as well as serums – that are readily available. It is important to consult a medical expert when using retinol and pay extra attention to the precautions, as well as possible side-effects. Medical experts advise you use products containing retinol at night; because of the effect this product has on the level of skin sensitivity, they also recommend using it in conjunction with an SPF.
L-ascorbic acid
L-ascorbic acid is an anti-oxidant that has been recognised as the most effective topical form of vitamin C (other ingredients containing vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate).
“Collagen is a protein that acts as building blocks or matrix of the skin. It is what binds the cells together. It also provides skin with its tensile strength and bounce,” says Nikolic. L-ascorbic acid can be found in products including eye creams, face and body moisturisers and serums, and can be used in the day and night alike.
Vitamin A ... is often called a “superhero”
Niacinamide
Often referred to as a “multi-tasking ingredient”, helping to combat anti-ageing, and known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid (an organic compound and another form of vitamin B3), niacinamide is, according to Nikolic, an effective skin-restoring ingredient that improves the appearance of enlarged pores and uneven skin tone, reduces fine lines and dullness and strengthens a weakened skin barrier.
Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin and, when applied topically, is attributed with helping to reduce the impact of environmental damage to the skin thanks to its effect on enhancing skin barrier function. Niacinamide can be found in moisturisers, serums, toners and specialised solutions such as boosters that can be added to other products in a skincare routine.
Checking ingredients found in your skincare or personal care products can not only help to address some of your concerns, but also help you to avoid undesirable side-effects. To help you navigate the complex world of beauty jargon, there are some handy apps – Think Dirty, GoodGuide and CosmEthics, a European app that analyses the product on scanning the barcode, to name a few – that will (most likely) be able to answer your skincare ingredient questions.