Bonds, respect and choices

worthwhile and relatively cost-effective alternative as they move their comfortable camping set-up between different sleepover locations on one of Africa’s great rivers.

It is also a happy alternative. The sounds of the bush are close, with nightjars, crickets, hyena, jackal, the occasional hoot of an owl, and the sawing sound of the leopard – if you’re lucky – accompanying the liquid, nocturnal coursing of the river on the other side of the canvas. And of course good food never hurt anyone.

The Robertsons brought in pop-up chef Lynn Zimba, who works with Safari Butler in Vic Falls, to feed us dinner and breakfast under the Natal mahogany. Kelly and Clint say they “love working with Lynn”; she says the feeling is mutual.

The family of guides operating out of Vic Falls is a close one, the bond perhaps enhanced, beyond the shared love of their country, by the rigorous Zimbabwean guiding qualifications.

Clint is a relative youngster, in his 30s, compared with Lewis the veteran – who also guides in Tanzania – yet word among the fraternity is that Clint, good with big game though his niche is river guiding and birding, has earned his respect.

Kelly, meanwhile, has found her own niche, socially and professionally.

“This place is paradise. Braais with guests, family and friends in the park are fabulous. I just love the elephants interacting along the river, and taking a dip, and those animal paths to the rivers.”

She says she did not pursue her veterinary career – her father is a vet back home in the States – because “Covid happened and I fell in love”.

She recently resigned from her job doing elephant research in Hwange because their camping operation is growing so fast.

“There is no place like this in the world. This is my favourite continent. My favourite country.”

Angus Begg is a private guide and photographer when not writing for Daily Maverick.