Daily Maverick

Poisonous benzene in shampoo might affect local consumers

Major recall of personal care products in the US follows detection of carcinogen at levels of up to 170 times above the legal limit – which could cause various types of leukaemia and other cancers. By

- Georgina Crouth

Alaborator­y in the US has raised alarm about the safety of personal care products after finding some dry shampoos contain levels of benzene up to 170 times the legal limit of two parts per million. It also discovered benzene in hand sanitiser, body spray and sunblock. Consumers in South Africa have reason to be concerned.

Benzene, found in cigarette smoke and petrol fumes, is used in plastics, resins, synthetic fibres, detergents and pesticides.

But the carcinogen finds its way into dry shampoos – a quick fix for dirty hair between washes – and even bottled water.

Depending on amount, route and exposure, compounded by age and medical risk factors, benzene is a dangerous presence in consumer products – sometimes at levels the US’s Food and Drug Administra­tion (FDA) says are “life-threatenin­g”.

Why worry?

Aerosol consumer products use propellant­s derived from fossil fuels and, though product labels never stipulate “benzene”, as manufactur­ers would not willingly add benzene, contaminat­ion is a growing concern.

The tainting is probably caused by inactive petroleum-derived ingredient­s such as propane, isopropane, butane or ethanol.

On 18 October, Unilever issued a major recall of 19 popular dry shampoo aerosol products in the US and Canada, citing an “abundance of caution”.

The products included popular brands such as Dove, Bed Head and TRESemmé.

Valisure, an independen­t laboratory in the US, known for its consumer activism, found benzene in several shampoo products — with levels of up to 170 times the FDA limit.

Analysis of 148 batches of dry shampoo from 34 companies found 70% had quantifiab­le levels of benzene, and 11 samples tested showed above 10 times the FDA limit.

Valisure wants contaminat­ed products recalled and the FDA to better define limits.

Exposure to benzene, a human carcinogen, is through inhalation, ingestion or skin contact. The Internatio­nal Agency for Research on Cancer says benzene exposure causes acute myeloid leukaemia. It is also linked to acute lymphocyti­c leukaemia, lymphocyti­c leukaemia, non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma.

Last month, Unilever told Business Maverick the recall in North America did not affect the South African market.

“Unilever US and Canada voluntaril­y recalled select lot codes of dry shampoo produced prior to October 2021 out of an abundance of caution, after an internal investigat­ion identified elevated levels of benzene. An independen­t health hazard evaluation concluded that levels of benzene detected do not pose a health risk.”

Later, Valisure said it had found high levels of benzene in mainstream brands such as Redken, Paul Mitchell, Batiste and Sebastian – some of which are only manufactur­ed in the US and do not affect South African consumers. However, Not Your Mother’s dry shampoos – widely sold in South Africa – were among the worst offenders.

It’s not the first time elevated levels of benzene have been found in products. On 17 December last year, Procter & Gamble issued a product recall of dry conditione­r and shampoo from Pantene, Aussie, Herbal Essences and Waterless produced in the US.

Procter & Gamble said, after reports of benzene in products: “...we began a review of our total portfolio of aerosol products. While benzene is not an ingredient in any of our products, our review showed that unexpected levels of benzene came from the propellant that sprays the product out of the can.

“We detected benzene in aerosol dry shampoo and aerosol dry conditione­r products. Nothing is more important to us than the safety of consumers...

“No other products from Pantene, Aussie, Herbal Essences, Hair Food and Waterless are in this recall and such other products may continue to be used as intended...”

Valisure has now filed a citizen petition with the FDA, requesting a recall and for the authority to redefine and clarify benzene limits in regulated products.

“[This] should be cause for significan­t concern, since these products are likely used indoors where benzene may linger and be inhaled,” said David Light, CEO of Valisure.

“Unfortunat­ely, it’s not so surprising that we continue to see benzene in consumer products, especially in aerosol consumer products,” he told MedPage Today.

In South Africa, research and developmen­t chemist Jaqueline Kachidza was alarmed by the high levels of benzene.

“A hundred and seventy times above the limit is a lot, considerin­g it’s lethal,” she said.

“You know, when students are working with solvents in a laboratory, they have to work under extraction. When I was an undergradu­ate student, I was not allowed to work with it for three consecutiv­e days – I had to take a break. No matter the level of exposure, it’s not okay.”

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This should be cause for significan­t concern, since

these products are likely used indoors where benzene may linger and be inhaled. Unfortunat­ely, it’s not so surprising that we continue to see benzene in consumer products

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