THE HUSSAR GRILL (WILLOWBRIDGE)

BEST FOR Weekday business lunches and family weekend meals. FOOD Obviously the thing to eat here is meat, for which they are famous, but they also have some delicious fish and even veggie offerings, like superb tomato soup and a large grilled black mushroom with caramelised onion and feta. The grilled calamari with chilli and garlic is delicious. Perfectly aged rump, sirloin and fillet are on offer, as well as ostrich served with a wild berry and apple schnapps sauce. Their sauces are legendary, ranging from Béarnaise to classic café de Paris. The salads are fresh and crunchy, with the caramelised pear, walnut and blue cheese one being a knockout.

The baked cheesecake has been gathering fans for years. DRINKS A multi-award-winning list. SERVICE Service throughout is professional and friendly. AMBIENCE Plenty of leather and brass fittings; clubby and cosy with a fire going in winter and large picture windows letting in lots of light. (GL)