THINKING OF GOING?

GETTING THERE

There are several ways to get to Ulaanbaatar. The main flight routes are via Istanbul, Hong Kong, Beijing and Seoul.

Getting to the remote Taiga requires advanced horse riding skills, as you will be riding on semi-wild horses and over rugged terrain.

Although you can also fly into Mörön and start the off-road journey from there, it is important to know that the entire trip involves significant travel costs. Many visitors underestimate this expense and the fact that it takes the careful coordination of locals to make this happen.

WHEN TO GO

To enjoy an authentic experience, try to avoid the tourist crunch in July and August. September is a good month to visit – there should also be fewer insects around at that time of year.

NEED TO KNOW

• South Africans require a Mongolian visa which can be obtained through the Mongolian embassies based in London or Beijing. • You are legally required to have a border permit when visiting the Taiga, as these areas are situated on the Mongolian-Russian border. This special permit can be obtained from the Border Protection Authority in Mörön. Most guesthouses are able to organise this on your behalf, but allow a couple of days as there is no sense of urgency in Mongolia. • There are no modern facilities in this remote area, which means no showers, no flushing toilets, no running water and no electricity. • Be prepared for all weather conditions and circumstances as the weather can change from hot to freezing within hours. • Food resources are scarce in the remote Taiga area – take what you’ll need. It isn’t possible to transport a lot of luggage because you will be making use of a packhorse. • Take along useful gifts for your hosts. Consider the environment and the Tsaatan lifestyle. I took practical gifts such as headlamps with extra batteries and camping gadgets for the men. In the Mongolian tradition, anything you can eat will be gifted to women. (I brought along packets of dried mango – they love it!) Stationery is also always welcome, so take lots of pens and small notepads. The Tsaatan are also quite conscious about dental care, so toothbrushes and toothpaste were gratefully received.

COSTS

• Flight tickets to Ulaanbaatar can set you back about R18 000 or more. • Mongolian visa: £40 (about R680) • Budget on $80 (about R 1 000) a day – this includes a driver, an English-speaking guide, three meals and all entrance fees and permits.

RECOMMENDED TOUR OPERATORS

Khongor Expedition in Ulaanbaatar: www.khongor-expedition.com Ayan Travel in Ulaanbaatar: www.toursmongolia.com The Tsaatan Community and Visitors Centre (TCVC) in Tsaagan Nuur: www.visittaiga.org