TRAVEL: TOP 10 PLACES TO VISIT IN BERLIN
Take a virtual stroll through this at once historic and happening city
I didn’t know what to expect from Berlin when I moved here from Cape Town in 2016. Now, this gritty city with its warm heart is my home. Here are some of my must-sees for first-timers – plus a few insider tips.
1. For history with a view
Home of the national Parliament of Germany, the Reichstag is not only a historical must-visit but packs quite the architectural punch too. It was in use between 1894 and 1933 but then lay in ruins for years after a severely damaging fire. In the 1960s it was resurrected to a small extent, and in 1999 it reopened after extensive reconstruction. The iconic glass dome provides a 360-degree view of the city – something that is quite rare because the capital is so flat. Take a guided tour to find out more about this building and its historic importance. To visit, you have to register online in advance – and remember to bring your passport. www.bundestag.de/en
ur entry into Hogsback was awesome. And I don’t mean that in the hippydippy sense that this verdant village has acquired a bit of a reputation for; I mean it in the actual sense of the word. We approached the pass that signalled our ascent into Hogsback at twilight, as a brooding sky bore down on us and lightning bolts struck the mountain top – precisely where we were headed – as if we were about to enter Mordor. (This journey was rapidly taking on Tolkienesque tones.) We wound our way up the narrow black pass flanked by thick foliage in the pelting rain and entered another realm: the lightning-streaked sky cleared, grey turned to green, Mordor became the Shire.
There’s a reason for the abundant references to
The Lord of the Rings: rumours abound that Hogsback was the source of inspiration for Bloemfontein-born author JRR Tolkien’s fictional Middle Earth. His family moved to England and apparently holidayed in Hogsback in the early 1900s when he was a child. Tolkien’s nanny, who came from the village, is said to have entertained him with Xhosa legends about mythical creatures that lived in the forested mountains – though it’s doubtful that in later years the author would have had such vivid recall. A more likely (though still inconclusive) story is that his son Christopher, who served in the Royal Air Force, sent back sketches and descriptions of the mountains and forests while stationed in nearby Queenstown.
2 For the quintessential Berlin selfie
The Brandenburg Gate is one of the world’s most iconic sights. This famous 18th century, 26m-high monument is a regular gathering point for everything from political protests and New Year’s Eve celebrations to the start and finish of the Berlin Marathon. It features 12 Doric columns with the goddess Victory in a horse-drawn carriage on top. Thanks to the pedestrian zone around it, you’ll be sure to snap the perfect sightseeing selfie here.
3. Families
Although South Africans are used to seeing wild animals in their natural habitat, the 33-hectare Berlin Zoo is well worth a stop. Kids will enjoy the feeding times (the seals and gorillas are always a hit), while the newly introduced pandas will raise an ‘aaawww’ from any animal lover. www.zoo-berlin.de/en
4 For the foodies
As a committed foodie and food writer, I love going to Markthalle Neun in edgy Kreuzberg. Fresh, organic produce as well as craft everything abounds. It feels like the prototype for SA’s Neighbourgoods Market, and you can feast on anything from dumplings to local bubbly, smoothies, ice cream and Berlin meatballs (called bouletten). Strike up a conversation with the suppliers: they’re always keen to share their obvious passion for their products and food in general. Street Food Thursdays are highly popular, as are the brunch sessions every third Sunday (Berliners love a brunch). The market hosts Christmas and coffee festivals, and is the perfect spot to discover foodie trends in the city.
A burger from Kumpel
& Keule is a must, as are authentic Italian bread and bakes from Sironi. markthalleneun.de/
5. For WW2 buffs
Tempelhof Field was used as an airport until 2008 and in 2010 it became one of the world’s largest inner-city green spaces. People flock to its vast fields to picnic, ride bikes and do inline skating. But the real appeal for history lovers is the role it played in WW2. The Tempelhof Airport building can be visited on a guided tour where you’ll learn in detail about the Berlin Airlift of 1948/9, when West Berlin was completely cut off from the West and had to survive on goods supplied by Allied airdrops over this field. The massive building covers 300000m² and was a symbol of Nazi ideology. www.thf-berlin.de/fuehrungen/ english-guided-tours/