TRAVEL: MOZAMBIQUE
Features writer Charis Torrance goes off the beaten track for a romantic beach getaway in Mozambique, courtesy of Isuzu.
We went on an epic road trip to the southernmost part of Mozambique in Isuzu’s mu-X.
I’ve never left South Africa. Well, that’s not entirely true; my mom tells me I once went to Namibia when I was two, but considering I have no memory of the experience I don’t really think it counts. So when Isuzu invited me on a four-day Mozambique road trip adventure, there was no way I could say no. My husband and I grabbed our never-been-used passports, packed our bathing suits and headed for the airport.
’Sup, Durbs!
Before we set off for the white beaches of Mozambique, we met our hosts in Durban: Isuzu team Gishma, Ami and Azima, along with Grant, Chris and ‘Boats’ from Driving Dynamics – whose job it was to make sure we all arrived safely. All lined up in a neat row was our transport for the rest of the way: the Isuzu mu-X with its 3.0 turbodiesel and six-speed auto transmission. It seemed like we were in good hands.
Let’s get one thing out of the way: I don’t drive. That’s not to say that I can’t… I’m just not very good at it. So for now I was happy Even though the skies opened up an hour into our stay, that wasn’t enough to dampen our spirits as we sipped on rosé and whiled the eveningaway.
to play DJ while my husband took the wheel.
With our playlist all lined up we headed out to Kosi Bay, where we stopped for lunch before making the crossing. The journey from Durban to Kosi Bay is a slow one: as you enter cattle country you need to stop every so often to allow Nguni cows to dawdle across the road. (They don’t seem to care that they’re holding up traffic.) But with the lush, green landscape surrounding you, you’ll be happy for a stop or two so that you can take it all in and snap a few pics.
Despite a few cow-related holdups, we made it to Kosi Bay Lodge in just under five hours, where we stretched our legs, ate fresh fish and prawns, and took in the view from the sundeck at Umdoni Restaurant. With the Mozambique border 15km away, it’s a great pitstop; there were plenty of visitors enjoying some poolside R&R en route to Mozambique. Since the Isuzu team did most of the official legwork (see info on left), crossing the border was a breeze. The only thing we had to worry about was the occasional traveller cutting in line as we had our passports stamped.
Past the border there’s a tarred road for a 13km stretch only (a recent addition). Once we hit the White Pearl Resorts turn-off it was onto a very old, heavily potholed
and eroded tar road. Luckily, this is where the mu-X thrives, handling each bump with ease. You can really push the vehicle on rough terrain – with a twist of a knob you change from 2H to 4H (the resort can be reached only by 4x4).
The 5-star treatment
The bumpy ride was well worth it as we pulled up to White Pearl Resorts. Situated on a pristine natural coastline 100km south of Mozambique’s capital, Maputo, the 22 suites are built on timber stilts, placing you in the perfect position to take in the sparkling blue waters of the Indian Ocean. It feels completely hidden away – the bush surrounds the pathways.
The resort has its own private beach, complete with gazebos on the shore where you can enjoy a picnic (you even get a flag which you can use to signal that your drink is ready to be topped up – cheers!) and each suite faces the ocean. And if sand isn’t really your thing, don’t worry: each suite also has its own private pool, or you can dive into the infinity pool and swim right up to the bar.
We were shown to our room by our own personal butler, Jorge. Our suite, one of six at the Beach Pool, turned out to have its own private pool and a path that leads right down to the beach. All 22 suites have an outside shower (again, the bush makes it totally secluded) and there’s a bath inside if you’re shy. The one thing that stood out for me was just how quiet it was, with only the sounds of the Indian Ocean to lull you to sleep.
After a day on the road the first thing we did was take a refreshing dip in our private pool, and then it was time for sundowners. A glass of bubbly? Check. Sea breeze? Check. Views for days? Check, check, check. We were entertained by a local band whose lead singer was 92 years old and had better moves than I had at 21, before heading inside to the restaurant to enjoy supper. The menu is all about fresh ingredients, with as much of the produce sourced locally as possible. Of course, what’s the point of coming to Mozambique and not indulging in prawns? That was pretty much all I ate while I was there – when in Rome, right?
They also have an extensive wine list, but who can say no to an ice-cold 2M? (Just one of the local beers on offer – other popular ones are Laurentina Clara and Laurentina Preta.)
Sea safaris & Ponta do Ouro
The next morning, after a long evening of indulging that holiday feeling, we were thankfully allowed to sleep in a bit. We got to sit on the balcony and watch the day begin with a coffee in hand before meandering to the restaurant. In the morning there’s a full breakfast buffet on offer and, if you have the time, you will want to linger here for as long as you can while you tuck into muesli, yoghurt and fruit, cheese and cold meats as well as their hot breakfast options (I’m a sucker for a good eggs Benedict). You definitely won’t be going hungry!
Delicious breakfast and coffee under our belts, it was time to start the day. While White Pearl Resorts offers loads of activities including spa treatments (enjoyed at the spa or on one of their oversized day beds facing the ocean), sea turtle walks (between November and February loggerhead and leatherback turtles head to this coastline to lay their eggs), horseriding on the beach and much more, we were in the mood for something with
a bit more action – an ocean safari.
The resort has its own PADI dive centre run by expert dive instructors. We were kitted out with flippers, masks and snorkels. On the beach the wet boat was waiting patiently for us to arrive. As the name suggests, expect to get wet. We went cruising up and down the coast on the lookout for dolphins, but to our disappointment, didn’t find any. We did, however, get to do some snorkelling near a small reef, amid plenty of colourful fish and the occasional loggerhead turtle. The clear waters and bright underwater coral make this area an ideal dive spot, but for now, snorkelling is my speed! Then it was time to climb awkwardly back on to the boat (no matter who you are, I maintain there’s no graceful way to do this).
After a quick bite and a rinse under the outside shower, we took off to explore Ponta do Ouro, which is an hour away from the resort, in our mu-X. We drove through Ponta Malongane first, a small town known for its roadside shops selling curios. (The locals are friendly, though persistent.) We took a stroll through one of the roadside markets and mingled with the sellers while local music poured out of one of the restaurants. They’re happy to chat and, naturally, keen to entice you with a bargain. Here you can buy gorgeous wood carvings and clothing: all in rand. I suggest you get yourself some authentic chilli sauce, an R&R (Tipo Tinto rum mixed with raspberry soda – Mozambique’s unofficial national drink) and a 2M-branded tee.
While Ponta Malongane is great for memento shopping, Ponta do Ouro is where the vibe is. The English translation of Ponta do Ouro is ‘Tip of Gold’, and the story goes that somewhere on the coast of this beach village there is a sunken ship carrying gold bars. Business is clearly booming; the town is filled with restaurants and bars. Our dinner destination was the Love Café, a quirky authentic Italian-slash-continental restaurant. It specialises in authentic homemade pizza and pasta, but for dinner we enjoyed a starter of phyllo samoosas stuffed with mozzarella, drizzled with honey and topped with sesame seeds, before tucking into their Love Beef fillet with fries and Gorgonzola sauce.
Even though the skies opened up an hour into our stay, that wasn’t enough to dampen our spirits as we sipped on rosé and whiled the evening away. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the resort where we enjoyed a cheeky drink at the Pool Bar while learning how to play a board game called Mancala. (Don’t ask me how it works; even though the game was explained at great length, I still have no clue how to play.)
The wild side
It was an early start for us the next day as we grabbed a quick breakfast before jumping into our mu-X, this time for a game drive in the Maputo Special Reserve. Originally established to protect the elephant population, the 77 400ha reserve has since become a refuge for crocodiles, hippos, giraffes, zebras, antelope, buck, plenty of birdlife and, of course, elephants.
I had never driven off-road before, but if you really want to get that full 4x4 experience, these narrow sand tracks are just the thing. I steeled myself, got behind the wheel and told everyone to buckle up. And it’s probably the most fun I’ve ever had, period. At first, my hands were shaking so much I thought I wouldn’t be able to pull away (I’ve never been so happy to be in an automatic), but soon the adrenaline took over and I felt like I could conquer any hill. And we got to see some wildlife too – giraffe, buck, antelope and the elusive elephants – at the moment there are only 600 in the reserve, so to spot a herd is rare.
So long, and thanks for all the fish
On our last evening in paradise we were treated to a beach BBQ where we feasted on fish and prawns and watched a traditional drumming and dancing performance by a local children’s troupe. The perfect end to our stay in paradise – a lovely combination of food, wine and music.
Just like that, we were on our way back to Durban, bags slightly heavier with souvenirs and faces pink from days spent in the sun. Though sad that our adventure had come to an end, we now knew what we’d been missing out on, and vowed that there would be plenty more adventures on the horizon.