TRAVEL: DC WITHOUT A DOLLAR
How to do the US capital on a dime
ON White a recent (and first) visit to Washington DC, the House was top of my list of places to see. But it wasn’t trades or treaties that compelled my visit. I needed to see the spot where Fitz and Olivia had their scandalous kiss! So I set off, following signage that ably guided the way. Until I noticed that the signs were now pointing in the direction I’d just come from.
I recalled walking past a big white building with throngs of people taking selfies outside, but it couldn’t possibly have been the White House, I thought. A few seconds later, Google Maps (now slightly exasperated, it seemed) instructed me to retrace my steps, even showing me an image of the building I’d just passed.
(That felt a bit patronising.) Clearly, I was more interested in fiction than reality. I’d been so fixated on Shonda Rhimes’s version of events that I’d missed the actual White House!
Fortunately, the real world would prove compelling enough during my travels through the capital – particularly because of how affordable it is to have a great time in the city. Here’s how to enjoy (the real) Washington DC without spending a dollar.
Look and learn
There’s no charge to have a peek inside Trump’s presidential residence (he’s probably off playing golf at Mar-a-Lago, so you wouldn’t be disturbing him), but that’s not all that’s on offer for free. DC has more than a dozen museums, all with no entry fee.
A highlight for me was the
National Museum of African American History & Culture.
It was both exhilarating and draining. In the History Galleries, sobering themes and events like the transatlantic slave trade are covered: you can see items like the hymnal of Harriet Tubman, the abolitionist who helped to free dozens of slaves, and a plantation cabin from South Carolina.
It was interesting for me, as a black South African, to learn so much about African-American history. In anticipation of the emotions the displays will elicit, you can share your thoughts in Reflections Booths, which are scattered throughout the museum.
It’s hard to get through the whole museum in one day, but it would be remiss to stick to just the bottom sections. If you’re pushed for time, cover at least one of the history floors, then choose between either the Culture or Community Galleries upstairs. There’s an area dedicated to Oprah Winfrey. If you’re a fan, aim to spend at least 30 minutes here as the exhibition features original artefacts from the studio, photos and memorabilia from her personal collections, and some of the outfits Oprah has worn during her illustrious career.
Conveniently situated at a corner, it’s easy to start here, then museum-hop, working your way down the National Mall, which has museums on each side.
Art lovers will particularly relish the National Museum of African Art, the American Art Museum, and the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden. Hirshhorn is remarkable because of its interesting cylindrical building and sunken sculpture garden where you can admire works by artists like Auguste Rodin and Yoko Ono.
Other free options include the National Archives Museum, home to the three most important documents in American history: the Declaration of Independence, the US Constitution and the Bill of Rights. You can also visit the National Museum of Natural History, the National Air and Space Museum and the US Holocaust Memorial Museum.
Making your way around can be quite tiring, so make use of the DC Circulator – the free public transport. It takes you all around the city but does get busy on weekends, so map out and time your commute carefully.
Stroll or run
If you’d prefer to get your 10000 steps in, DC has beautiful scenery. Flanked on either end by the Capitol Building and the Lincoln Memorial, the National Mall is a beautiful, pedestrian-friendly grassy park. At just over 3km long, you can also clock a decent run along its tree-lined boulevards.
In addition to the White House, DC has other structures worth visiting. You could start at Capitol Building and head towards the towering Washington Monument at the opposite end. A series of structures follow on from here, including the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial, the Korean War Veterans Memorial and the World War II Memorial. Part museum, part magnificent structure, each of these are breathtaking.
When I visited the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial, a group of African-American bikers were also there. They asked me to take a picture of them in front of his massive statue. Their joy at being there was tangible, and as I continued around the memorial, the 14 quotes on the surrounding Inscription Wall took on deepened significance. One of them, from a 1965 speech he made, encapsulates the range of reflections experienced by many visitors: ‘I have the audacity to believe that peoples everywhere can have three meals a day for their bodies, education and culture for their minds, and dignity, equality and freedom for their spirits.’
A song and dance
Of course, DC has great entertainment too. You can go to several jazz clubs or rock concerts regularly hosted in the city.
And at 6pm every day of the year, the Millennium Stage hosts a free performance as part of the Kennedy Center’s Performing Arts for Everyone initiative. Check out their website for upcoming performances, or just pitch up and let it be a surprise.
Between May and September, catch Jazz in the Garden, a series of free concerts every Friday evening in the National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden. Entertainment can range from Brazilian folk and jazz to reggae.