BEAUTY: SKINIFY YOUR HAIR:

Thought hyaluronic acid, alpha-hydroxy acid and SPF were reserved only for your face? Haircare is officially giving skincare a run for its money…

The skincare ingredients that work wonders for your hair!

Summer is here, which means we’re all dutifully slathering on SPF and giving our skin some extra love, right? But here’s the thing: sun, chlorine and salt water can also do a real number on your hair – which is why many haircare brands are incorporating skin-loving ingredients into their formulations. Yep, it’s time to upgrade your mane maintenance.

CLEANSE & CALM

If you have sensitive skin you’ll know the condition doesn’t magically stop at your hairline. But there is some good news when it comes to treating a sensitive scalp: the abundance of hair follicles allows topical ingredients to penetrate deeper than any other spot on your body.

Vitamin C, aka ascorbic acid, is known for its beneficial effects on the skin: it helps repair damage and protects against aggressors like UV damage and pollution. When found in shampoos, vitamin C helps to fight bacteria on the scalp while simultaneously soothing dry and itchy skin. ‘It is a powerful antioxidant and it’s necessary for collagen production, which is essential for hair building,’ says leading Cape Town-based trichologist and hairstylist Elma Titus. ‘Collagen protects the layer of skin that contains hair roots and may help prevent agerelated hair loss and thinning.’

Urea occurs naturally in your skin and binds to water, helping your skin stay hydrated. According to the website The Derm Review, urea is ‘an active part of our natural moisturising factor (NMF), a group of hygroscopic molecules that regulate the level of moisture on our skin surface by binding water molecules in order to protect from severe drying’. Goodbye, dry scalp!

Another superhero skincare ingredient now being utilised in haircare is charcoal, for its detoxifying properties. Charcoal shampoo will help to get rid of excess oils, toxins and product build-up without damaging the hair shaft.

TIP:

Use gentle strokes when brushing your hair. Physical trauma caused by forceful brushing can further irritate a dry scalp.

VITAMIN C

• Dr Miracle’s ‘Feel It’ Formula Tingling 2 in 1 Dandruff Shampoo & Conditioner – ascorbic acid, retinyl palmitate (vitamin A), R149

UREA

• Eucerin DermaCapillaire Calming Urea Shampoo, R112,99

CHARCOAL

• OGX Purifying Charcoal Detox Conditioner – activated coconut charcoal and kaolin clay, sulphate-free surfactants, R169,99

COLLAGEN

• OGX Biotin & Collagen Conditioner, R169,99 EXFOLIATE ‘In the same way that you exfoliate your face for cell renewal, product build-up removal and cleansing, you should also be exfoliating your scalp,’ says Elma. ‘It stimulates growth and oil secretion to lubricate the scalp and hair.’

Thought alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) were just for your face? Think again. The chemical exfoliators also have a role to play when it comes to haircare.

One of the most popular AHAs is lactic acid, which is naturally found in milk and is used to exfoliate the skin and improve the appearance of wrinkles (Cleopatra knew something back then!). Studies concluded that while all AHAs exfoliate the skin, lactic acid has the added bonus of improving the skin’s natural moisture factor. When used in haircare, lactic acid both exfoliates the scalp and moisturises dry hair.

Acne-busting BHA (salicylic acid), meanwhile, exfoliates the top layer of skin and penetrates blocked pores by dissolving dead skin cells.

So what type of exfoliator is best for your scalp? ‘Physical exfoliation is good for normal to dry scalps; it helps to clean the scalp and stimulate growth,’ Elma says. ‘Chemical exfoliation becomes necessary for people with excessive dandruff, seborrhoeic dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis, to relieve irritation and scale build-up.’

TIP:

When using a scalp exfoliator, follow the instructions carefully. ‘Some manufacturers would like you to apply it with a brush while you can apply others with your fingers in a rotating movement to remove the sebum, debris, product build-up and dry skin cells,’ explains Elma. ‘This technique of scalp exfoliation is quite new in South Africa. I do not recommend scalp exfoliation for those who have issues like bacteria and fungus on the scalp.’

CHEMICAL EXFOLIATORS

• L’Oréal Botanicals Fresh Care Ginger & Coriander Strengthening Shampoo [salicylic acid], R149,95

• Vichy Dercos Oil Control Treatment Shampoo [salicylic acid], R199,95

• Dove Intensive Repair Conditioner [lactic acid], R69,99

PHYSICAL EXFOLIATOR

• The Body Shop Fuji Green Tea Refreshingly Purifying Scrub Shampoo, R180

MOISTURISE

Aloe vera is well known for its soothing properties. ‘It is very effective for a sensitive scalp,’ says Elma. ‘It contains an enzyme that prevents itching and minimises scaling and flaking.’

Hyaluronic acid is another one you may have heard of – usually in the context of skincare. But it also hydrates the hair follicles and scalp by helping the cells retain moisture. ‘Hyaluronic acid is not only good for hair, but for your general health too,’ says Elma. ‘It adds volume, moisture, strength and elasticity to your hair structure and minimises porosity.’

Shea butter is usually found in heavy-duty moisturisers like body butters. But it is also very moisturising to the hair and scalp. ‘Shea butter is especially good for people with psoriasis and eczema,’ Elma says. ‘It reduces irritation and inflammation on the scalp, strengthens the hair deep inside and prevents against breakage, split ends and dryness.’

The fatty acids in shea butter also reduce frizz and protect the hair from heat damage caused by flat irons and blow-drying. If you have curly and coarse hair, use shea butter as a sealant to keep moisture in and increase softness.

ALOE VERA

• Hask Cucumber Aloe Water Weightless Shine Conditioner, R149,99

HYALURONIC ACID

• Kératase Bain Lumière Hydrating Illuminating Shampoo, R330

SHEA BUTTER

• Marc Anthony Hydrating Coconut Oil Leave-in Conditioner [coconut oil and shea butter], R169,95

• The Body Shop Shea Butter Richly Replenishing Hair Mask, R180

• Lush Sugar Daddy-O Solid Conditioner, R120

PROTECT

UV rays burn your hair the same way they burn your skin. ‘When hair is in a poor condition during summer it means the UV rays have damaged the cuticles, leaving the hair in a dull state,’ says Elma. She recommends products that contain SPF, like the Clarins Sun Care Oil Mist SPF 30 for body and hair.

Some natural oils can also protect hair from sun damage. Mongongo oil, derived from the fruit of the manketti tree, is a protectant that contains vitamin E, calcium, copper and zinc. Products like Biosense Color Seal Silver Shampoo contain the oil and alpha-eleostearic acid, which adds another layer of sun protection

Linseed oil, too, isn’t just a remedy for oily skin; it also protects from UV rays and helps to prevent hair colour from fading.

Argan oil is full of fatty acids and antioxidants like vitamin E, and has been used for centuries for its health and beauty benefits. A 2013 study found that the antioxidant activity in argan oil protects skin against free-radical damage from the sun. This benefit may also extend to hair, helping to prevent drying and UV damage.

SPF

• Clarins Sun Care Oil Mist SPF30, R460

LINSEED OIL

L’Oréal Elvive Colour Protect Low Shampoo, R99,99

MONGONGO OIL

Biosense Silver Shampoo, R185

ARGAN OIL

• LUSH Jason and the Argan Oil Shampoo Bar, R120

• Inoar Kalice Oil, R780

• Kiehl’s Smoothing Oil Conditioner, R330

• Moroccanoil Smoothing Lotion, R505