Charis Torrance takes time out in Mauritius at the ecoconscious Lagoon Attitude hotel,
Mark Twain said, ‘Mauritius was made first and then heaven, heaven being copied after Mauritius.’ He was onto something: my idea of heaven definitely includes a well-stocked beach bar, white sandy beaches, warm waters, crystal-clear pools and delicious fo
after an overnight flight of five hours from Cape Town (four if you’re coming from Joburg), I arrived bright and early on the island of Mauritius.
BEFORE WE DIVE IN
Once home to pirates, Mauritius is listed as one of the world’s top destinations for couples and newlyweds. Holidaymakers from around the world trade in concrete jungles and cold weather for the island’s warm waters, turquoise lagoons surrounded by coral, white powdered beaches and volcanic mountains. It’s a favourite destination for Saffers, says my taxi driver during the 80-minute drive to the north of the island, my home for the duration of my stay.
It makes sense: Mauritius is only two hours ahead, so jet lag isn’t a factor, you don’t need a visa and it’s probably one of the few places where the rand is (slightly) stronger. The driver goes on to tell me how there were no inhabitants on the island before colonisation, slavery and indentured labour, so Mauritius is a melting pot of cultures, with locals of Indian, French, Chinese and African descent. (They also call themselves the ‘rainbow nation’!)
ECO-CONSCIOUS HOLIDAYING
It’s easy to see the effects of climate change the world over, but Mauritius in particular isn’t safe. The island is listed as the 14th most exposed country to natural disasters. The beaches are shrinking due to erosion, and the warming of the oceans has led to the deterioration of their corals – the very reasons people come to the island.
I was excited to be one of the first people to stay at the new ecocommitted Lagoon Attitude Hotel. Part of Attitude Hotels, a leading
hotel brand in the Mauritian hospitality industry, the four-star adults-only hotel received Travelife Gold certification for its efforts towards social and environmental sustainability. This includes banning single-use plastics (690 000 products in total), offering mineral sunscreen throughout the resort (to prevent the 25 000 tons of harmful chemicals in sunscreens being released into the ocean and killing the coral), and supporting the local community. All stakeholders and employees (they call them family members) are Mauritian, and most of the furniture and décor is made by local artisans.
The hotel’s Green Attitude Foundation also provides education and awareness programmes on marine biodiversity, and promotes local talent through annual music festival Konpoz to Lamizik where the winners perform at the hotel and the top five get to record a single.
When I arrived, hotel manager Rubens and his ‘family members’ were there to give me a warm Mauritian welcome (something
else the island is well known for). I was given a wooden key card (no plastic, remember) and my bag was dropped off. There are signs of upcycling throughout the hotel: beer bottles have been transformed into drinking glasses, plastic bottles into a magnificent chandelier and chairs are made from reclaimed boat sails. They’re working on solutions to remove all paper, but so far reception has touchscreens for checking in and out, and each room has an iTV so you can access all the necessary information.
You won’t find sugar, coffee, tea and creamer in the room, but you can stock up at the ‘bulk shop’. The shampoo, conditioner and soap are all 100% natural products in reusable containers and you won’t find plastic shower caps either. Even the sanitary bin liners are compostable.
My holiday had officially begun as I took the positive footprint pledge and got ready for my week of relaxing and exploring – guilt-free. Here’s what I got up to (in between swims and cocktails – obviously).
ONE MAN’S TRASH…
In line with their green ethos, Lagoon Attitude offers free workshops for guests to learn how to give new life to ‘junk’. I also learnt how to make mineral sunscreen at a workshop run by Julie of Kokodézil, a local beauty brand. Her products include a natural mosquito repellent (which, believe me, will come in handy!).
TAKE A TOUR
The Otentik Discovery app lets users choose their tours and be their own tour guides, visiting must-see destinations as well as those off the beaten track. There are 11 tours to choose from, including exploring the seaside vistas of Cap Malheureux, a scooter tour through the remote villages of Quatre Cocos and Trou d’Eau Douce, and the historic tour of the capital, Port Louis. I picked the street food tour.
I started at the Caudan Waterfront, Port Louis’s marina, and ended at Roti Aka – where you’ll find the best rotis this side of Durban. Highlights for me had to be a cold Alouda (a flavoured drink made from
milk and basil seeds) from Alouda Pillay, the Chinese biscuit shop and Café Shanghai for dim sum. The city also has fantastic street art, especially in Bourbon and Edith Cavell streets and Chinatown.
MORE GLORIOUS FOOD…
Mauritius is brought into the hotel through their restaurants: Taba-J (named after Mauritian grocery shops, they specialise in traditional street food) and Kot Nou (which offers pure Mauritian cuisine). You can even learn to cook traditional dishes such as rougaille and vindaye. But if you want to see how the locals do it, spend an evening with an Attitude family member. Guest relations liaison Carine Berthelot invited a few guests to dinner with her family, where we sat down to a meal of chilli bites, samoosas, fish and chicken curries, and plenty of rum and juice. I also tasted local wine (an Oxenham Bordofin rosé – sweet and great with lots of ice) before dancing the night away to sega (the national style of music and dance of the island). When you book this, all the money goes to the host family to cover food, drinks and their time.
A DAY AT THE RACES
On Saturdays from April to December, Champ de Mars (the oldest racecourse in the southern hemisphere and the second oldest in the world, after Chester Racecourse in England) is packed with locals. The racecourse opened in June 1812, the same year the British took over from the French, and it was also here, 156 years later, that Mauritius declared its independence.
Locals spend the day at the tracks, enjoying dholl puri (stuffed flatbread/ roti), pistaches grillées (boiled and roasted peanuts) ice creams and cold drinks. If the heat and crowds are too much, you can spend the afternoon in the airconditioned Attitude box, as I did. It has a great view of the track, a betting booth and freeflowing bubbly.
SWIMMING WITH THE FISHES
Overseen by marine biologist Olivier Tyack and run by scientists Nina Dubois and Shakti Teker, the Marine Discovery Centre teaches locals, schools and tourists about the importance of preserving the marine environment. The centre monitors ecosystems in critical condition by observing the coral reef and mapping aquatic plants, examining mangroves and analysing migratory species to reduce the impact that visitors have on the lagoon, and to restore endangered ecosystems.
From here you can go diving, but if you aren’t ready for deepsea adventuring, snorkelling in the lagoon is a safer bet. There is a dedicated snorkelling trail where the waters are shallow and you don’t have to worry about strong tides. As you dive down, you’ll spot plaques that will point you along. Look out for hawksbill sea turtles, clownfish, po-faced lionfish and so much more.
ISLAND HOPPING
On the final day, I set out with a few guests on a pirogue (a wooden fishing boat) with a cooler full of drinks to explore one of the many islands surrounding Mauritius. Along the way, we could jump out for a swim or enjoy a beer before arriving at our destination: Bernache Island. Here, we lazed in the sun (or in my case, the shallow waters), but you can also snorkel while the crew prepare a seafood braai. There are plenty of islands scattered around the coast of Mauritius, although not all are open to the public, for conservation reasons. But the lagoon and stunning beach make Bernache a must.
FINAL THOUGHTS
The Attitude group wants you to experience your holiday like a local: with an Otentik (authentic) Attitude. This credo is divided into five pillars: Otentik Dinner (dinner with a family member), Otentik Cuisine (100% Mauritian cooking classes), Otentik Discover (self-guided tour), Otentik Music (once a week, local musicians entertain guests) and Otentik Bazaar (a market for local artisans). I loved having the option of spending my day poolside or discovering the local community, and doing it all with as little harm to the environment as possible.
An all-expenses-paid 6-night stay for two adults at Lagoon Attitude Hotel, including return airport transfers and an ‘Otentik’ dinner experience at a local’s home, sponsored by Attitude Hotels.
Two return economy-class tickets on Air Mauritius (including airport taxes) from Johannesburg, Durban or Cape Town to Mauritius, sponsored by the Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority.
QUESTION: What is the name of the dinner experience that is sponsored by Attitude Hotels?
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