BEAUTY: WINTER-PREP YOUR SKIN
Keep your skin soft and supple all through the chill
Chilly weather, dry air and hot showers all wreak havoc on your skin: think chapped lips, a tight or flaky complexion and even the dreaded ‘winter itch’. We asked the experts for advice: how do you keep your skin soft and supple all through the colder months?
Don’t skimp on sunscreen during colder months - the winter sun is sti dangerous.
USE A GENTLE CLEANSER
The point of a cleanser is to gently clean your skin, not strip it to the bone with abrasive chemicals. ‘Avoid harsh washes and toners that contain alcohol,’ says Dr Suretha Kannenberg, a Cape Town-based dermatologist who is affiliated with Stellenbosch University. ‘There’s actually no need to use toner at all. Harsh products strip your skin of the lipid layer that helps to maintain moisture.’
When picking out a cleanser, look for formulas that contain moisture-retaining ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides. If you have dry skin, you’ll want to take it easy on alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids as they can cause more harm than good. HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOUR CLEANSER IS TOO HARSH? HERE ARE SOME TELLING SIGNS:
A feeling of tightness about 5-10 minutes after cleansing, which is caused by quick evaporation of water from the skin’s surface. Skin dryness, scaling and
roughness: Harsh chemicals like alcohols and acetone make your skin very dry – and cold weather and low humidity don’t help.
Skin irritation: Redness and itching following the use of harsh soaps, which harm the skin barrier. Allergic contact dermatitis:
When your skin reacts to the fragrances, preservatives or dyes in some soaps.
Top tip: Avoid piping hot showers and baths. ‘Hot water in particular is detrimental to the moisture of the skin,’ says Dr Kannenberg. ‘Of course, I’m referring to the skin on the body
– I can’t imagine why someone would soak their face in hot water!’ Hot water evaporates quickly, and if the skin isn’t immediately moisturised, the skin barrier is compromised. Shorten your shower time and keep the water lukewarm at most.
• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, R114,95
• Lush Amazon Primer Naked Facial Oil, R185
UP YOUR MOISTURISER GAME
If you ask your gran, she will probably tell you that petroleum jelly is a fail-safe during winter. And she’s right! Petroleum jelly doesn’t contain any water and is best used on damp skin to seal in moisture.
‘Look for moisturisers with plant oils, petroleum jelly and stearic acid as they help replace oils in the skin,’ says Cape Town-based dermatologist Dr Dilshaad Asmal. If greasiness is a bit of a turn-off, she suggests using a heavier moisturiser that contains glycol, urea, glycerine, hyaluronic acid and propylene. Dr Asmal specifically recommends SBR Lipocream, which helps to maintain a healthy skin barrier and is ideal for dry, sensitive skin.
‘Consider adding an extra moisturiser or changing your moisturiser to something a little richer,’ says Dr Kannenberg. ‘But see how your skin feels first. It may not be necessary. You may have to step up your moisturising routine by adding something richer in lipids – play it by ear.’
Don’t forget to pat on a gentle eye cream under the eyes and across the lids after applying your face serum and moisturiser. This will help to prevent redness and eczema, which are known to flare up in winter.
Dry oils are also a great alternative to body lotions – they are luxurious and hydrating. Body oils often have multiple uses (our favourite – Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse Multi-purpose Dry Oil – can be used on hair too) and address any skin issue, from dryness to ageing and UV damage.
Top tip: The best time to moisturise your skin is straight after you’ve had a shower, while your body is still damp. Gently pat your skin dry, then slather on your chosen moisturiser to seal in moisture.
• Kiehl’s Creme de Corps, R440
• Benefit It’s Potent! Eye Cream, R525
• Gatineau Body Lotion with AHA, R585
Sothys Hydra-Nourishing Body Lotion, R625
Lush Sympathy for the Skin Hand and Body Lotion, R255
Kiehl’s Creamy Eye Treatment with Avocado, R440
3 WEAR SPF ALL YEAR ROUND
Avoid looking like a worn-out baseball mitt by wearing sunscreen every day! The most common skincare issues (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and skin thinning) are caused by sun exposure. With lower temperatures and overcast skies, it’s understandable to assume that you
can skimp on sunscreen – but you really shouldn’t. The winter sun is still dangerous.
While UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn, are less potent during winter, UVA rays are still shining down on you. It’s these rays that are responsible for damage like collagen breakdown. The days of greasy, pore-clogging sunscreens are long gone, so there’s no excuse not to wear SPF daily.
BUT SPFs AREN’T ALL CREATED EQUAL – HERE’S WHAT TO LOOK FOR:
SPF: SPF stands for ‘Sun Protection Factor’ and can range from two to more than 50. This number indicates the percentage of UVB that a sunscreen can block and for how long it can protect you from the sun. The American Academy of Dermatology currently recommends using a sunscreen with at least SPF30 protection.
Broad spectrum: This is the most important term to look for when scanning a sunscreen label. It means the product protects you from both UVB and UVA rays.
Chemical: Chemical sunscreens contain compounds that absorb UV light and prevent it from penetrating the skin. These chemicals include oxybenzone or benzophenone, though they may not be ideal for sensitive skin.
Mineral: Mineral sunscreens are often also called physical sunscreens because they act as a shield by sitting on the skin’s surface and deflecting the sun’s rays. These sun creams often contain ingredients such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or both. Noncomedogenic: This means a sunscreen contains ingredients that are less likely to cause breakouts by clogging your pores. This is the best option for those who battle with acne.
ADD ANTIPOLLUTION PRODUCTS TO YOUR REGIMEN
As if your skin isn’t going through enough, it’s also under constant assault by pollution. No matter the climate, your skin is being attacked by free radicals, plus everything from cigarette smoke to exhaust fumes can wreak havoc on your complexion. ‘Pollution breaks down skin barrier function by degrading collagen and lipids,’ says Dr Asmal. ‘It can also clog pores, cause irritation, rashes and breakouts, and dehydrate the skin.’
These pollutants generate free radicals (also generated by UVA rays), which can cause skin sensitivity. This leads to a myriad of skin problems such as hyperpigmentation, premature ageing and a sallow complexion. Thankfully, there are several antipollution products that shield the skin with the help of antioxidants.
To prevent damage, apply a vitamin C serum before layering on heavier products. And (again!) don’t forget your sunscreen on top.
5 PROTECT YOUR LIPS
The skin on your lips is extremely delicate and can take a beating in winter as it’s constantly exposed to the elements. Licking your lips may seem like a quick fix, but Dr
Asmal guarantees this will dry them out even more.
‘Use an ointmentbased lip balm, and avoid products that contain menthol and camphor as they have a drying effect,’ she adds.
Dr Kannenberg recommends applying a generous amount of lip balm every day to ensure ample moisture is supplied to the lips. Look for healing ingredients that contain synthetics like glycerine or dimethicone, which protect the skin barrier and seal in hydration. Moisturisers such as shea butter, cocoa butter and essential oils can help to soften your pout. Many lip balms also incorporate sunscreens for outdoor exposure and contain UVA-protecting ingredients such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Keep your lips hydrated at night as the air tends to dry them out while you sleep, says Dr Asmal.
• Lansinoh HPA Lanolin nipple cream (great for lips, too!), R209,99
• Nuxe Rêve de Miel lip balm, R230