Fairlady

ENTREPRENE­URS

Whether it’s a vibrant, eye-popping print or a functional piece of furniture that tells a story about heritage and culture, these entreprene­urs know how to make a style statement with their true-to-self design aesthetics.

- The Oromo occasional chair is inspired by the Oromo hairstyle of the late 1800s in Jimma, Ethiopia. Opposite Mpho Vackier, seated on a variation of the Oromo chair. ‘It’s all about surroundin­g yourself with the right people. My team is everything.’ Websit

Two designers who are making a statement in their own inimitable style share their trade secrets

Process engineer turned furniture designer Mpho Vackier is the founder of The Urbanative, a contempora­ry furniture and product design company. Her goal? To share African traditions and stories through her craft.

You worked in the mining industry for many years – how did you get into furniture design?

I always wanted to study design but I didn’t have the money. I got a bursary to study engineerin­g, so I did that instead. After studying extraction metallurgy, I started out as a process engineer in the mining industry. I was a pyrometall­urgist for about 10 years and worked in a lot of smelters. I loved it; I loved the chemistry aspect and all the thermodyna­mics. Then, in 2010, I saw an opening to study interior design, so I went back to school. Five years later I got a chance to have a stand at Decorex. I didn’t have anything to show, so I had to design a couple of pieces and

quickly make prototypes in order to participat­e. That was the beginning of TheUrbanat­ive.

How did your engineerin­g background play a role in your new field?

When I worked as an engineer, I always saw myself as a problemsol­ver. I approach my furniture design in the same way. Design is one thing, but what people seem to forget is that you have to be technical about putting furniture together. You’re constantly trying to resolve the design and figure out aesthetics and functional­ity. You also have to know the properties of each material. That in itself is problem-solving.

What inspires your shapes and silhouette­s?

The crux of TheUrbanat­ive has always been about forming connection­s. My husband is Belgian and I’m Tswana, and

I wanted to create something that’s a meeting of two cultures. Mainly, I started TheUrbanat­ive because of my son. Most African stories are passed from person to person, so those stories die out if they aren’t written down or passed on. When you take African stories and mesh them with modern design, you make those stories relevant and you’re able to retell them so they’re never forgotten.

Which aspects of African culture inspired your latest collection?

Traditiona­l African hairstyles. The African Crowns collection was inspired by the global conversati­ons around Africanism, Afro-futurism and African hair. As an African woman and an African designer, I wanted to celebrate the beauty and magic of historical African hairstyles. As a black woman, our hair has never been something we have been proud of because it hasn’t been seen as beautiful. This collection was a love letter to my natural hair.

Tell us about the design process for the collection.

I did some research and looked at old images, then I started sketching. I wanted to imbue the pieces we were designing with the sculptural and textural qualities of those traditiona­l hairstyles: the weaving and the organic lines. I took the concept I wanted to represent, then used gorgeous, relatable and modern materials to convey the story I wanted to tell. It shouldn’t become a relic, but rather a functional, beautiful piece that someone can put in their home.

What’s your design secret? Is there a common thread that runs through all your pieces?

Simplicity is sophistica­tion. We strive to be as authentic as we can be to the stories that we tell. People sense authentici­ty.

You won the 2019 South African Designer of the Year Award – congrats!

Thanks, that was cool! It was through 100% Design South Africa. I collaborat­ed with lighting designer Thabisa Mjo; we won the award after taking part in a design showcase in Milan. We came up with a collection based on what SA design looks like. Because South African culture is such a melting pot, we took inspiratio­n from the Zulu and Sotho, but also the French and Dutch. Perhaps because we’re quite a young movement, we aren’t afraid to push boundaries.

What has been your biggest challenge so far?

The design industry is so small, and when you’re starting out, you can’t help but question yourself:

‘Is my voice valid?’ As an engineer coming into the design industry, I have always felt that I’m not a ‘real’ designer. But I have been able to achieve insane things that I didn’t think were possible. It’s all about surroundin­g yourself with the right people. My team is everything.

Do you have any advice for someone who wants to be their own boss?

I learnt so much from working for an interior design company before starting my own business – skills I use to this day. Do freelance work; start a side hustle! I started TheUrbanat­ive in 2017, yet I still don’t earn a salary! That’s the nature of being an entreprene­ur: you have to realise that there are going to be serious sacrifices. Build up some capital, work with people that you admire, get mentors and take it slow.

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