How to decide which face serum is best for your skin
Serums are often touted as the ultimate solution to any skin difficulties. But when every dewy-faced, wrinklefree beauty guru out there is preaching the incredible benefits of a different one, how do you decide which one you need?
The available information about serums can be confusing: Do you need one at all? Should you apply it in the morning or at night? Does it replace an existing product in your skincare regime? Should you use it every day?
Because they’re expensive, you need to know what you’re doing before you splash out; you’ll want one you can milk for every precious drop!
A crash course
◗ Serums contain one or two research-proven active ingredients that target a specific issue, such as pigmentation, fine lines or puffiness, so identify the problem you want to fix.
◗ Some active ingredients (like retinol) should only be applied in the evening. During the day they can make your skin cells more photosensitive, causing a higher risk of sun damage.
◗ Because serums contain active ingredients, you need to be careful where you store them. Heat exposure (like if they’re sitting on your bathroom window sill) leads to the active ingredients ‘decaying’, meaning you just don’t get as much bang for your buck.
◗ Bacteria from your hands may reduce the efficacy of the active ingredients. I personally lean towards products with droppers and pumps to reduce crosscontamination, otherwise wash and rinse your hands before application.
◗ There’s no problem with layering serums or using different serums to target specific areas – like a patchwork quilt of skincare. Your skin is not static, so experiment to develop a routine that works for you.
◗ Once your serum goes onto clean skin, you’ll want to lock in the product with a moisturiser to help with deep penetration of the active ingredients.
◗ How often you use your serum is different for everyone and entirely up to you: see what results you’re getting and experiment with frequency until you find the routine that works best for you.
◗ You can use a different serum in the morning and at night: opt for one that protects against free radicals in the morning to help stave off the effects of pollution, and one that contains retinol at night.
◗ Generally, you should apply serum between your toner and your moisturiser: the toner readies your skin for better absorption and the moisture locks in the benefits.
TO STRENGTHEN, LIFT AND HYDRATE
African Extracts Rooibos Triple Action Serum, R204.99
This vegan product is a powerhouse of plant extracts, including bio-active rooibos extract; chlorella, a green algae that packs a strong anti-oxidant punch; aloe extract, which is effective against breakouts and dryness; jojoba seed oil to restore the skin’s natural lipid barrier; and lavender extract, a great anti-inflammatory. It also contains ceramides and hyaluronic acid to firm and hydrate skin. I loved the lightness of this serum – it absorbed quickly. The formulation is perfect for summer; in winter, combine it with a richer moisturiser.
TO BOOST MOISTURE AND BRIGHTEN SKIN TONE
SKOON WOW-WOW WONDER, R499.95
This potent combination contains a triple blend of hyaluronic acid, plus vitamin C. A little goes a long way – it absorbs easily and is extremely moisturising: we’ve just come out of a reasonably hot summer and my skin feels calm and not at all dehydrated, which is unusual at this time of year. I used it in the mornings, as recommended, but it’s sticky, so could safely be used at night too without coming off on your pillow. It’s an excellent product by any standards, but what makes me love it even more is that it’s a local product.
TO BRIGHTEN AND REFRESH YOUR SKIN
EUCERIN NIGHT PEELING SOLUTION, R519.99
Exfoliation is crucial to fresh-looking skin, but this is a step many of us neglect. That’s where this great product comes in. Alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) and hyaluronic acid are the perfect combo for rejuvenation. Dual pump action separates the two elements, combining them only on application and making them super-effective. It has a slight ‘sunblocky’ scent, but don’t be misled: this is better used at night. AHA can cause irritation, so I’d recommend using it for no more than three nights a week.
TO TIGHTEN AND SMOOTH TINY WRINKLES
LAMELLE DERMAHEAL AGE REVERSAL NECK SERUM, R815
I’m guilty of neglecting to use sunscreen on my neck and chest area, much to my dermatologist’s dismay, so I was eager to test this product. Lamelle has created a targeted serum promoting collagen and elastin fibre production (read tightening), which also combats skin thinning – the troublemaker behind that crepey look. Thinning skin isn’t an issue for me at the moment, but where this product did shine was in combating my sun damage: it reduced ruddiness and improved moisture retention in my décolleté. It definitely brightened things up! The gel formulation glides onto the skin easily, and it left no residue.
TO PROTECT YOUR SKIN FROM DAILY EXTERNAL IRRITANTS
NUXE BIO ORGANIC CHIA SEEDS ESSENTIAL ANTIOXIDANT SERUM, R795 Gentle enough to use once (or even on occasion twice) a day, this serum has an almost watery texture, which makes it easy to apply and wear, and it’s great under makeup. Like all NUXE products, it has its own very subtle and beautiful scent (I’ve found this with the entire NUXE offering, and I think it’s a huge plus). Chia seeds are an excellent antioxidant, and the additional vitamin C helps to boost radiance.
TO SOOTHE SENSITIVE SKIN
LAMELLE CORRECTIVES 3.0 RA SERUM, R680
Retanoic acid is the approachable cousin of retinol. It has all the anti-ageing and skin turnover benefits of retinol but is much gentler. It should only be applied at night. It took me a few tries to get used to its thin, oily consistency – if I used any more than three drops, I went to bed feeling clogged and transferred most of the product to my pillow. Once I’d figured out my dosage, I noticed a marked improvement in the texture of my skin. This is the perfect start to your retinol journey. It also comes in a 5.0 (5%) RA concentration for more seasoned retinol users.
TO REDUCE DARK SPOTS
NIVEA PERFECT & RADIANT LUMINOUS
630 ANTI DARK MARKS SERUM, R379.95
Nivea has researched the best way to combat dark spots, and this lovely light serum is the result. You’ll notice a difference within four weeks of use. As your skin tone evens out, the luminosity will increase too. It’s named for Molecule 630, the one scientists found (after testing 50 000) to be the most successful in regulating melanin.
TO PROMOTE COLLAGEN PRODUCTION
NEUTROGENA CELLULAR BOOST REJUVENATING CONCENTRATE, R215 This product is a double treat, with both retinol to promote collagen production and skin renewal, and hyaluron icacid for hydration and plumping. It’s part of the Cellular Boost range, which tackles the cellular degradation that results in visible signs of ageing. Soothing and gentle,itisasi mple, clean and affordable b asicthat can be added to any nightregime. time skincare
TO INCREASE ELASTICITY AND REDUCE HYPERPIGMENTATION
DERMALOGICA AGE SMART BIOLUMIN-C SERUM, R1 750
The lipid-based formula boasts two active ingredients: vitamin C, which helps to lighten dark spots and protects against free-radical damage, and palmitoyl tripeptide-5, a restorative protein that targets skin firmness. The oily serum feels luxurious and dries slightly sticky, making it a great primer for makeup. Apply it before bedtime and you’ll notice a glow the next morning. The Dermalogica AGE Smart range certainly delivers on its claims.
TO RESTORE MOISTURE
SOLAL HYDRATION SERUM, R439
I love being pleasantly surprised, and this product did just that. When I applied it the morning after one too many glasses of wine, I truly believe it cured my hangover from the outside in! The silky cream felt moisturising without leaving a greasy residue. It’s no wonder: SOLAL uses a hyaluronic acid polymer that keeps the acid (and its plumping superpowers) in the upper layers of the skin. Hyaluronic acid, despite its deceptive name, is very gentle and can be used morning and night, every day. (I was so impressed, I even used this excellent serum as an eye cream to combat fine lines). Our bodies naturally produce less hyaluronic acid as we age, so if your skin feels lacklustre and dull, this is a great product for you – a shot of moisture should sort you out.