Farmer's Weekly (South Africa)

Christmas treats’ origins are something to relish!

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Christmas festivitie­s are often associated with food and drink, and some of these can be very specific, such as Christmas cake, eggnog and the Yule log. Janine Ryan looks at the origins of some of these traditions.

PANETTONE

In South Africa, most major retailers sell panettone in the lead-up to Christmas, and it has become known as a cake to enjoy in the festive season.

Panettone originated in Milan, Italy, and dates back to 1495. According to food solutions group Puratos, it was created when the Duke of Milan hosted a luxurious Christmas at his home. But the planned dessert was burnt and a young cook, named Toni, came up with a plan to save dessert: a rich brioche bread, filled with raisins and candied fruit. The duke reportedly loved it, and so the tradition of Pane di Toni was born.

But the story doesn’t end here, and in 1821, panettone “became a symbol of liberty” in Italy, says Puratos. “Red candied cherries and green-coloured citrus replaced the raisins and fruit, creating the red, white and green Italian flag.”

CHRISTMAS PUDDING

Often enjoyed in South Africa during the festive season, Christmas pudding is an English dessert that has its roots in medieval Britain. It arose from a separate dish called plum pottage, which was a “soupy stew”, as the BBC describes it, which contained beef, spices and dried fruit. Plum pottage quickly became associated with winter feasting.

By the end of the Tudor era (around 1603), a pudding version of plum pottage appeared, and plum pudding and plum pottage co-existed happily for many decades, says the BBC. Plum pudding, however, similar in style to plum pottage, had a marked difference: it contained no meat. Instead it was made of beef suet, and thickened with breadcrumb­s and flour. Eggs were also added. Once the dough was thick enough, it was put in a wetted cloth and boiled until cooked.

Plum pudding gradually became part of the main meal; it was often eaten alongside meats, and was seen as the ideal accompanim­ent to roast beef.

WINTER DISH

Indeed, during the 18th century, plum pudding and beef were considered the main dish. Like plum pottage, plum pudding was eaten widely throughout winter. However, as the BBC says, it was not a dish for the poor, what with the addition of spices and expensive imported fruit. As plum pudding could keep for months, it was also considered a perfect gift. During the 19th century, it was increasing­ly associated with feasting, and particular­ly with the Christmas feast. This was because of its recognitio­n as an ideal accompanim­ent to beef, which was the mainstay meat of Christmas meals.

However, in 1845, plum pudding became known as Christmas pudding, after Eliza Acton published a recipe for the dessert under the name, ‘Christmas pudding’. As such, it also lost its place as an accompanim­ent to beef, and became a dessert. It was then served alongside cream, custard or butter brandy, and eaten as we know Christmas pudding today. From this came the Christmas cake, which, if you were wealthy, was often decorated with marzipan.

 ?? PHOTOS: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS ?? Filled with candied fruit, panettone was reportedly created by a young cook in Milan to replace a burnt dessert.
PHOTOS: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS Filled with candied fruit, panettone was reportedly created by a young cook in Milan to replace a burnt dessert.

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