Policy doesn’t fit practice
Government has been asked to solve the crisis developing in the clothing industry, where nearly half of all firms are failing to pay the minimum wage.
The issue is squaring up into a test for government’s commitment to “decent work” — a goal the ANC has placed at the centre of its economic policies — but the policy implications are even wider.
Companies are being forced to make a choice between upholding decent working standards and making thousands of people redundant. This exposes flaws in SA’s labour regulatory model — one that in the clothing industry was never flexible enough to allow firms to cope with the international competition that came with trade liberalisation.
Compliant firms claim they are losing big orders to noncompliant firms, many of which pay less than half the stipulated wage, giving them a considerable cost advantage.
Over the past three years there has been a mushrooming of noncompliant factories in nonmetro areas like northern KwaZulu Natal, and in Botshabelo, ThabaNchu and QwaQwa in the Free State. Firms have taken advantage of rural unemployment to pay sweatshop wages.
Despite an exhaustive legal process by the Clothing Industry National Bargaining Council, 387 noncompliant manufacturers have refused to honour minimum wages and basic conditions of employment.
Last month, when the council attempted to exercise writs in execution against first offenders in Newcastle, desperate clothing workers threatened to assault officials and burn their vehicles rather than lose their jobs, some paying as little as R80/week.
Last week, the Free State provincial government asked the council for a 30day moratorium on action against the 85 noncompliant factories employing 8 000 workers in the province.
The clothing industry employed 140 000 people 15 years ago. Today it employs 54 000 workers and the number is dropping, mainly because it cannot compete with imports from Asia.
This problem is not confined to clothing. Most domestic manufacturers are expected to compete internationally without the industrial policy support and labour market flexibility that other fastgrowing markets enjoy.
Manufacturers warn that unless there is alignment over labour, industrial and trade policy, SA will continue to deindustrialise.
“The current labour regulatory model is more than 50 years old and outlived its usefulness many years ago,” says Apparel Manufacturers of SA (Amsa) executive director Johann Baard.
“It’s one thing to have a high-cost labour model if your trade policy is protectionist, but 15 years ago there was massive liberalisation of trade policy in SA. We’ve only just started to see the introduction of industrial policy incentives but have yet to hear any utterance from government that we need labour market alignment.”
At a recent meeting with the Free State government, the department of trade & industry suggested a three-tiered wage model be adopted by the clothing industry, allowing small, medium and large firms to charge differential wages, as is done in the leather and footwear industry.
Amsa suggests allowing a greater differential between nonmetro and metro wages (say 30%-40%) by lowering the minimum wage for new hires only.
“We need to consider if there isn’t space for a patriotic commercial response in which all the parties move out of their comfort zones,” says Baard.