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a while, I think your wines just get out of balance and hard, you get unripe characters. It’s about finding that balance in the grapes and the wines,” he says.
Packaging trends have also changed for a more environmentally conscious world. “Some of the countries we export to want wine in lighter-weight bottles, and a bag in a box because it is better for the environment,” he says.
And there has been a distinct shift towards more accessible ready-to-drink red vintages that are less heavy than the traditional favourites.
A judicious switch
Michael’s succession as cellarmaster is the culmination of a career-changing epiphany. Initially, he applied to study law and engineering, which suggested the dynasty might come to a halt. But a summer spent working on a grape harvest in Italy, in the Alto Adige region, changed his mind. to state coffers with excise duty, income tax
so just a fraction of that would be a huge help in promoting South African brands all over the world. You can’t go with R10m to the US it’s not even $1m,” he says.
Of late, there have been indications that the government is listening.
In his budget speech in February, finance minister Enoch Godongwana raised excise duties on wine by just 4.9%, below the inflation rate, which the industry lobby group Vinpro welcomed as showing “understanding for the financial realities that wine businesses
face”.
Rico Basson, MD of Vinpro, says this offers some relief to wine businesses, which are experiencing “major challenges” such as a reduced harvest, the energy crisis and supply chain issues caused by the war in Ukraine.
It’s a small gesture by the National Treasury, but it suggests that estates such as Simonsig might have a future as a family-owned business, rather than being swallowed by one of the wine whales. And it’ll help to ease Michael into his new role.
Says Johan: “If we make the whole export cake bigger, everyone will benefit not only the owners, but [everyone] working in the wine industry.”