Financial Mail

In the fast lane of fashion

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The traditiona­l model of trendsetti­ng in the fashion industry was that a pronouncem­ent would come out from some lofty atelier in Paris that this season sleeves should be the size of spinnakers and hats like satellite dishes, and the world would tug the forelock and follow suit.

This is clearly not applicable to the age of TikTok, and Shein has led the way in turning the model on its head, putting out small quantities of a huge range of items, seeing what sells and thus allowing the consumer to set the trend.

This approach means it is left with vastly less unsold inventory than its rivals, somewhere in the single digits, according to the company, vs the 25%-40% that is the industry norm.

This has helped to turbocharg­e its extraordin­ary growth story, hitting $10bn in revenue in 2020, which marked the seventh year of over 100% growth. By 2022 the revenue number was $22.7bn, and the company has said it is targeting revenue of an ambitious $58.5bn in 2025. Its last funding round in April 2022 raised money at a valuation of $100bn, though the recent applicatio­n of cold water on investors’ fevered brows suggests that its next funding round will be at a more sober $64bn.

Shein has attracted its fair share of controvers­y, over issues including aggressive tax policies, low postage rates to the US, interestin­g attitudes to its users’ data, human rights and labour violations, and the environmen­tal impact of fast fashion, and unsurprisi­ngly it is said to be working on transparen­cy and ESG issues ahead of what is rumoured to be a whale of an IPO.

Sadly, the party came to an abrupt halt when the second-stage rocket failed

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