Directory

1 Karoobos Padstal. You’ll find coffee and koeksisters, freshly made pies plus proper Karoo sheepskin slippers for about R600 a pair (and it’s R2,50 to use the clean loo). There’s also a family museum and vintage photos to browse. 048-885-0395 2 Mountain Zebra National Park. As the name suggests, expect beautiful hilly landscapes, scenic drives and herds of plains game. Conservation fee R48 pp. 048-801-5700 3 Rock Chalets. These two-bedroom chalets are amazing. Luxurious and spacious with windows as walls facing the park and rocks cleverly built into the stoep, you feel miles away from the main rest camp even though you’re still in it. From R3 170 (sleeps four). 048-801-5700 4 Cheetah Tracking. The park’s resident cheetahs are closely monitored and you can see these lithe creatures in their natural, wild environment by tracking them with a guide. The drive begins at 8.30am, and you’ll be taken into private areas of the park as part of the activity. Booking essential. R400 pp (age 12 and up, for two people minimum). 048-801-5700 5 The Owl House. For nearly 40 years, Helen Martins (with help from local craftsman Koos Malgas) brought light and colour into her home and garden using cement and ground glass. Open daily 9am to 4.45pm, entry R60 (or R90 for the Owl House and Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre, where you can see the petrified remains in a nearby riverbed). Note, there are no ATMs or petrol stations in the village. 049-841-1733 6 The Karoo Lamb. Great for an afternoon snack of Karoo tapas, including agave buds (they taste like gherkins) and pickled grapes. R30 per tapas bowl. Open daily. 049-841-1642 7 Polka. Set in a beautiful courtyard, this cafe-bakery-deli is where you’ll find more elaborate Karoo fare, such as lamb burgers with pear and gorgonzola (R89), plus traditional treats such as mini milktarts. 087-550-1363 8 The Valley of Desolation. Spend some time here at golden hour and walk the 1,5km Crag Lizard Trail to all the scenic outlooks over the valley. Most of it is unfenced, so you can ‘dassie’ between the viewpoints. Conservation fee R38 pp. 049-892-3453 9 Lakeview Tented Camp. Privately spread out, four lovely self-catering tents on decks with secluded braais share ablutions and a kitchen area. They close the gates late here if you want to go out for dinner in Graaff-Reinet. From R695 (tents sleep two). 049-892-3453 10 Samara Private Game Reserve. This is a luxury five-star stay that’s absolutely charming. Take advantage of SADC discounts and low-season rates. Full board, including cheetah tracking, all meals and selected drinks, is from R2 825 pp in winter. 031-262-0324 11 Blue Door Café. It doesn’t look like it from the front, but this is a true travellers’ oasis: there’s a delightful garden with bunting flags, proper coffee and everything is well priced. Try the cinnamon apple pancakes (R25). 049-846-0205 12 Karoo National Park. Tackle the short but captivating Fossil Trail (the chunk of petrified wood was my favourite) and learn about the smaller plants of the Karoo on the 950m Bossie Trail, both in the main rest camp. The best game viewing is on the 13km Lammertjiesleegte Route, on the plains. The (thankfully cool) thatched self-catering chalets include breakfast at the attractive restaurant. Conservation fee R48 pp. Chalets from R1 250 B&B (sleep two). 023-415-2828