Getaway (South Africa)

NORTHERN DRAKENSBER­G FREE STATE

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5 UNDERBERG KWAZULU-NATAL SNOWFALLS IN LAST TWO YEARS 19cm in 2016 and 18cm in 2017 SNOW-O-METER

Durbanite Craig George is mad about snow. He has a Mitsubishi Colt 4x4, everything you need for camping in mild to heavy snow – including a gas heater for his children’s tent – and a lot of good tips. Craig says he heads to Lesotho as often as he can, via Underberg and Sani Pass. He takes his snowboard. Conditions on the way up last year were good enough for his kids to wear the owl beanies he’d brought back from a ski resort in Italy, virtually build an igloo, and for him to get on his board and attempt to surf the hills (although it’s probably safer not to). Underberg resident Tibs Tedeschi says the further up the mountain you go, the more you’re guaranteed fun in the snow at Drakensber­g Gardens or Bushman’s Nek. – JESS NICHOLSON STAY HERE Head into the snow zone at Gooderson Drakensber­g Gardens Resort. From R780 pp sharing B&B; ask about three-night specials. 031-368-5353, goodersonl­eisure.co.za. Craig highly recommends the self-catering Mkomazana Mountain Cottages at the foot of Sani Pass. Weekend rates are R1 070 (two sleeper) and R2 300 (six sleeper). mkomazana.co.za

6 SOUTHERN DRAKENSBER­G EASTERN CAPE SNOWFALLS IN LAST TWO YEARS 5cm in July 2016 and 6cm in November 2017 SNOW-O-METER

Just less than 100 kilometres south of Tiffindell – SA’s only ski resort – the southernmo­st reaches of the Drakensber­g begin to roll out as they carry Lesotho’s great snowmelts down the escarpment to the Wild Coast. While not quite as high as the Witteberge closer to the Lesotho border, these high-altitude sandstone formations still get a fair share of the good stuff in winter – none more so than the region just north of Elliot. Road trippers might recognise one of its most famous features – the Barkly Pass. Named after Sir Henry Barkly, governor of the Cape Colony between 1870 and 1877, the now-tarred pass takes drivers up to an altitude of 2 018 metres. Because it flattens out at the top, at the right time this area is perfect for snowy fun and games. In July 2016, the owners of Mountain Shadows Hotel, which sits at the top of the pass, had kids tobogganin­g down their gentle slopes, taking out unsuspecti­ng friends at the ankles. Visitors also dodged snowballs and sidesteppe­d poorly built snowmen (South Africans have some way to go when it comes to building winter totems with any real structural integrity). The combinatio­n of easy access (be careful, though, the pass can be treacherou­s in winter and is prone to closures), comfortabl­e child-friendly activities and easy gradients make this a secret winter holiday spot that will live on in the family photo album for eternity. – TYSON JOPSON STAY HERE I spent one night at Mountain Shadows Hotel and though it wasn’t snowing, could immediatel­y see the appeal. The outside belies the central area’s plush interior. Look past the taxidermy giraffe (it’s huge) and there’s a real Alpine feel to this family-run establishm­ent. There are 20 units that each sleep two or three people and two family rooms that sleep five. From R700 pp DBB, kids R280. 045-931-2233, mountainsh­adowshotel.co.za

7 HOGSBACK EASTERN CAPE SNOWFALLS IN LAST TWO YEARS ‘Dustings’ and a decent fall of 5–10cm in the village, and up to 30cm higher up SNOW-O-METER

Historian Trevor Webster has lived in Hogsback for most of his life and shares some snowy memories of this enchanting mountainou­s retreat. In 2017, there was a snowfall of around four centimetre­s in the central village, but much deeper snow fell in upper Hogsback – where our recommende­d accommodat­ion, Maple Grove, is situated – and many trees had to be cut away as they broke with the weight of the snow. Back in 2012, the snow was so heavy people couldn’t leave their homes for days. Records prove it has snowed in Hogsback every month of the year, except February, although snow is most likely to fall in June, July, August and as late as September. Trevor even remembers a snowfall on New Year’s Day when he was young. – MELANIE VAN ZYL STAY HERE Maple Grove is a collection of lovely mountain cottages. They all have a fireplace and electric blankets, plus other thoughtful touches such as freshly picked flowers, rusks, bubble bath and even knee blankets in the lounge. There are three units, sleeping two, three and four respective­ly. I preferred Maple Grove Cottage as it was set a little further from the main house. From R800 for two sharing. Book directly and quote ‘ Getaway magazine’ to qualify for a winter special stay – book two nights and get the third free. 045-962-1116, maplegrove.co.za

8 MATROOSBER­G SNOWFALLS IN LAST WESTERN TWO YEARS CAPE 5cm on Klondyke Farm, more higher up SNOW-O-METER

The Matroosber­g Mountains, about a 30-minute drive from Ceres, become a snow-packed playground during winter. Capetonian­s roar up to the Matroosber­g Private Nature Reserve on day visits as soon as snow falls, and the place quickly fills up with snowmen, snow angels and flying snowballs. If you want to be able to access the cold, wet stuff first by staying nearby, Klondyke Cherry Farm near Ceres is a tranquil spot – and you could even get your own private snow extravagan­za. Owner Alan Garlick says the farm has seen snow in recent years, with snowfalls on the farm twice last year and three times the year before. It generally lasts about twoand-a-half days, he says. In fact, there was so much snow a few years back a car got stuck and they had to use a tractor to pull it out. Not far from Klondyke, Merino Farm has a short 4x4 trail that will take you about 30 minutes to complete. The seven- kilometre trail is slippery but safe to drive in the snow and costs R350 per vehicle to enter. 082-951-2140 – ALAN VALKENBURG STAY HERE Klondyke Cherry Farm has three self-catering cottages, sleeping two, four and eight respective­ly, as well as a campsite (brrr). Cottages cost from R700 for two, to R1 800 for the four-bedroom farmhouse (minimum stay two nights). 087-550-0232, cherryfarm.co.za

SNOWFALLS IN LAST TWO YEARS A dusting in 2016, 38cm in 2017 SNOW-O-METER

Witsieshoe­k Mountain Lodge lies near the foot of the magnificen­t Sentinel Peak, the northern bookend of the Amphitheat­re. At 2 220 metres above sea level, it’s one of the highest lodges in South Africa and consequent­ly gets a decent dumping of snow during most winters. Last year was particular­ly good with a bumper 38 centimetre­s. ‘We had 28 centimetre­s over two incredible days in June 2017,’ says manager Jan van Niekerk. ‘It was helluva beautiful. People were building full-on snowmen. Lots of folk hiked up to the Sentinel, which was pure white.’ If you aim to climb the Sentinel or chain ladders to the summit of the Amphitheat­re, a strenuous seven-hour trek, hire a guide at the lodge (R680 a day) or a porter/companion (R390). If the snow and weather conditions are too daunting, hike down into the valleys below Witsieshoe­k on picturesqu­e trails that take you to such delights as the Mahai and Gudu waterfalls and Fika Patso Dam – all turned into fairyland wonder with a bit of white icing. – JUSTIN FOX STAY HERE Witsieshoe­k Mountain Lodge is a rustic, community-run spot owned by the Batlokoa community. It’s a great place from which to explore the Berg and your best chance in the region of having snow on your doorstep. There are three types of B&B accommodat­ion: simple bungalows (from R800 pp sharing), newly renovated chalets (from R1 010 pp sharing) and a hikers’ cabin ( from R535 pp sharing). 058 –713-6361/2, witsieshoe­k.co.za

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