Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
From East London, follow the N2 north-east for about 35km and turn off on the R349 to Kei Mouth. Take the ferry across the river (R80 per car, 7am to 6pm in summer, until 5.30pm in winter). Follow the road from the north bank for 11km, turn right at the T-junction and proceed for 6km to Qolora. If coming from Durban via Butterworth, on the N2 turn left at the Centane/Mazeppa sign. It’s about 28km to Centane, where you turn right at the ‘ Trennerys and Seagulls Hotel’ sign. Follow this road for 26km to the coast. It’s all accessible in a normal sedan.
STAY HERE
Trennerys has been a fixture on the Wild Coast for 90 years. Enjoy hearty, home-style fare, a cosy bar, tennis court, water sports and plenty of facilities for children. From R810 pp sharing DBB. Camping from R100 pp (with full use of hotel facilities). trennerys.co.za Neptune’s Cove in Kei Mouth is a large house divided into five self-catering units right on the beach. From R300 pp sharing (sleeps four to six each). 043-841-1473 Double Mouth Nature Reserve, 5km west of Morgan Bay, has 30 campsites on terraces above the ocean. From R225 per site. Reserve entry R10 pp. 043-492-0881
DO THIS
Discover Qolora with Trevor’s Trails. He has six tours that include The Gates, Kobonqaba River estuary, visiting a local Xhosa home, Gxara Waterfall and the Khoisan middens at Halls Point, a sunset cruise on the Qolora River and the ‘pool of prophesy’. From R100 pp. 073-575-7223 Walk to the shipwreck, an easy 4km north-east along the beach from Trennerys. Do it at low tide. Go horse riding on the beach at Kei Mouth with Wild Coast Horseback Adventures. From R350 pp for 90 minutes. Fullday rides and overnight trails also available. 082-567-0972 Abseil and climb Morgan Bay’s cliffs with Rockfacelabs. There are many short climbing routes, from grade 10 to 27, most in the moderate range. From R100 pp. 078-296-4906 or 076-316-2543
EAT HERE
The Bushpig in Kei Mouth offers hearty meals in a congenial environment (it’s part of a backpackers) and has braai facilities, a bar and tea garden. Chicken strips and chips R100; steak, salad and chips R120. 073-726-9322 Morgan Bay Hotel has two good options: formal, fourcourse dinners in the main dining room (from R225 pp) and more casual meals at The Deck (burgers from R70, seafood platter R109). 043-841-1062 Seagulls Beach Hotel, another family hotel at Qolora Mouth, is famous for its Saturday-night seafood dinner. R185 pp. 047-498-0044 Yellowwood Forest ecoretreat near Morgan Bay has wood-fired pizzas (about R75), a tea garden and bar. On Saturday mornings there is a market with food stalls. 043-841-1598