Plan your trip

GETTING THERE

I flew Emirates to Colombo for R7 200 (included a Discovery Vitality discount). emirates.com

NEED TO KNOW

South Africans need a visa (R440). Apply online. eta.gov.lk/slvisa

July to October is monsoon season – generally avoided, but I went in September and it was wonderful. Ask your hosts to arrange meals for you – often the most affordable and best meals of my trip. Booking train tickets is confusing, so enlist the help of your host or a local to buy them at the station. I preferred second-class because it was cheap (R50 pp) and I could open the windows and move around freely. Use tuk-tuks for short distances in town – they’re easy and affordable; buses are cheaper but less comfortable. Pricier private taxis (sedans) can be organised by your hosts. Uber operates in Colombo.

STAY HERE

The Little Townhouse is set in the heart of Colombo in a peaceful neighbourhood. The hosts helped to book my train tickets and gave valuable advice. From R245 pp sharing, including breakfast. airbnb.com/ rooms/12523755 Heritance Tea Factory is an elegant hotel in Nuwara Eliya. Breakfast was an all-out affair with both local food, such as ‘hoppers’ (a bowl-shaped egg pancake), and Western options. I loved the guided early-morning village walk (free). From

R1 050 pp sharing B&B, heritancehotels.com/ teafactory

Idyll Homestay. This simple spot in Ella offers great value for money and excellent views. The hosts were helpful and arranged our tuk-tuks too. From R190 pp sharing. idyllhomestay.strikingly.com

DO THIS

See, smell and taste tea.

Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory in Ella offers a tour. Go early

– it opens at 8am. Don’t go on Sunday – the factory doesn’t operate, even though there are tours. R57 pp. halpetea.com Walk everywhere. Ella is known for its rolling hills, waterfalls and viewpoints. Little Adam’s Peak is the most popular climb and offers superb views. At the start it goes through tea plantations, then a moderate ascent with many steps. visitella.com

Cook like a Sri Lankan.

Matey Hut in Ella is a roadside shack that serves great food and its cooking course, given by a wonderful host, is superb. We made six local (vegetarian) dishes, including curries with sambals, and fresh coconut milk using an old-style grinder. Lunch and the two-hour lesson costs R170 pp. Find it on Facebook.