Getaway (South Africa)

ADVENTURE

See the bush differentl­y (and a little faster) from the seat of a mountain bike

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Bicycling through ‘Big Five’ country? It’s more thrilling than scary

WHAT Maseke MTB WHERE Near Hoedspruit WHO Melanie van Zyl

‘Will there be lions?’ my mom asked, when I told her I’d be riding a bicycle through a game reserve. Yes, and buffalo and elephants too – big ones. Between Hoedspruit and Phalaborwa, the 10 000hectare Maseke Game Reserve shares an open boundary with the Kruger National Park, so wildlife moves freely.

I met up with my host, Gareth Putter, and Michael Stone, our armed guardian and guide, on a fresh bushveld morning for coffee and rusks. Then, with saddle adjusted and helmet clicked in, I hopped on and followed Gareth down the meandering dirt road.

I hadn’t been on a bicycle in years and had forgotten what a wonderful sensation it is to pedal through nature, open to the elements. There were a few uphills but gradual enough to still enjoy the exhilarati­on of a climb, and we stopped often, resting bikes and butts to immerse ourselves in the surroundin­gs.

I could listen out for the alarm calls of oxpeckers (a telltale sign of big mammals nearby) and stop to examine fresh tracks and lion scat. We also tried to coerce baboon spiders from their woven tunnel nests, and identified other spoor that criss-crossed the roads – jackal, impala, kudu, the snaking trunk track of an elephant that had dawdled down the same route.

All the cycling was along roads (mostly firm sand or gravel) and we rarely strayed, except to inspect a tree up close or enjoy a viewpoint. Despite the reserve being an elephant hotspot, thanks to the abundant mopane trees, we didn’t bump into any on this ride. But we did encounter several giraffes, and the rich botanical variety and interestin­g scenery meant there was plenty to enjoy.

GUTS FACTOR 6/10 – it is ‘Big Five’ territory, after all. Yet it requires no more courage than doing a bush walk. The guide has a rifle but will use it only as a last resort. I never felt unsafe.

VERDICT You cover way more ground (so you’re likely to see more) than on a bush walk, but still enjoy being immersed in the wilderness. It was perfect for an amateur like me, as the cycling gear was in good nick and of high quality. The guides are keen cyclists, though, for those after something more demanding. Avid mountain bikers will love the three-night slackpacki­ng-style MTB trail launching soon.

COST R850 pp morning ride (up to four hours), R550 pp afternoon ride (up to two hours). This includes a mountain bike, helmet, water bottle and trail mix, plus coffee or a drink.

THE DETAILS It takes about half an hour to drive from Hoedspruit to the meeting point. Morning rides start at 5.30am (7am in winter) and cover up to 12 kilometres; the afternoon ride starts at 3.30pm (2.30pm in winter) and covers up to eight kilometres – distances depend on game sightings.

BOOK 061-585-7380, masekemoun­tainbiking.co.za

 ??  ?? TIP Ask to ride along the Olifants River for a real treat.
TIP Ask to ride along the Olifants River for a real treat.
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