Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
From Cape Town it takes under two hours, on the N1 before turning left on to the R43 and R46. On the way back, continue on the R46 (via Riebeek Kasteel) before joining the N7 via the R45 – also about two hours.
STAY HERE
The Victorian Family Loft is a comfortable and atmospheric self-catering spot (sleeps four). It’s one of several historic buildings on Church Street that comprise Cape Dutch Quarters, Jayson’s hospitality business. From R300 pp. The all-Spode breakfasts (R100 pp) in the dining room of the manor house are wonderful affairs that will take you back a few centuries. 079-051-2059, cdq.co.za
The Tulbagh offers four-star rooms with all the mod cons
– in a building that dates back to 1859. The restaurant offers some of the best dining in town (breakfast, lunch and dinner – great pizzas!) and is open to non-guests. From R700 pp sharing B&B. 023-230-0071, tulbaghhotel.co.za
Eikelaan Farm Cottages comprises three immaculate self-catering units (sleep two or six people) with air con, braai, fireplace and fantastic views towards town. Order fruit, vegetables and free-range chickens from the farm. From R425 pp sharing. 083-700-3376, eikelaan.co.za
DO THIS
Explore Church Street.
A guided walk with Jason costs R150 pp (including museum entry) and can be booked any time at Cape Dutch Quarters’ reception. Otherwise, download his audio tour on voicemaps.me. See the Tulbagh Waterfall.
It can be thunderously chilly or a delightfully tranquil spot for a dip. Either way, the 15-minute walk is worth it. Get a permit (R10) from the tourism office. 023-230-1375 View local art at the Christo Coetzee Gallery & Museum, which celebrates the work of this avant-garde artist who lived in Church Street for 40 years. 023-230-0093
Pick your own food at the Church Street Kitchen Gardens (the aubergines, strawberries and cherry tomatoes were all great). Or ask the gardener to prepare a mixed-herb salad for you. 023-230-1171 Sample Krone bubbly at Twee Jonge Gezellen, where 18th-century buildings meet modern interior decor in the new tasting room. There’s no charge for tasting but good luck resisting the urge to buy a bottle. Closed Sundays and public holidays. 023-230-0680 Visit Oakhurst Olives for the dramatic setting at the very top of the Twee Jonge Gezellen road, and to try its juicy olives, award-winning oils and the best tapenade I’ve ever tasted. 023-230-0147
EAT HERE
Paddagang, with its elegant bull-nose gable, dates back to 1810 and is one of the oldest restaurants in South Africa
(it was a notorious ‘taphuis’ in the 1880s). There’s great boerekos, gorgeous lawns and a large play area. 072-128-7356 Makers Mark is a very chic new spot on Church Street with an impressive courtyard and a gallery of contemporary South African and Australian art. It serves tapas, sophisticated bar food and has cheese tastings; a liquor licence is pending. 071-978-3012