Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
On the N2 from Durban, take the Hluhluwe off-ramp, go through town and take the R22 for 80km to Mbazwana. From here turn right off the R22; the Sodwana Bay National Park gate is 16km further. There are often animals on the roads so avoid driving after dark.
WHEN TO GO
Sodwana is a year-round diving destination – the water is always above 21˚C. November to April is great for mantas, ragged-tooth sharks and turtles; avoid the December holiday crush if you can. The Sodwana Bay Festival is in April. Sea conditions are best between May and June; catch the whale migration from June to October.
NEED TO KNOW
All divers pay R50 pp for a once-off permit to dive in the reserve, available from the post office and many lodges. Fees payable (cash only) at the park gate are R47 adults, R41 children, and from R58 per car. Guests at Coral Divers and Mseni pay a daily park fee from R95 pp (kids half price).
STAY & DIVE HERE
Coral Divers has two-sleeper tents from R195 pp and chalets from R310 pp, with shared ablutions (or from R650 pp for an en-suite chalet). You can self-cater but there are great communal braais, a snack restaurant and buffet dinners and breakfasts. Three-night, five-dive packages from
R1 220 pp. Individual dives from R315 pp; courses from R4 000 pp. 033-345-6531, coraldivers.co.za
Triton Dive Lodge is popular with both experienced divers and beginners. It’s near CORAL DIVERS Mbazwana, about 10 minutes’ drive from the sea. It has a pool deck, bar, restaurant and braai area plus log cabins, chalets, en-suite rooms and bigger houses, some with shared kitchens and ablutions, from R345 pp. A guide does trips to Lake Sibaya from R250 pp. Individual dives from R380 pp; courses from R4 950 pp. 082494-8761, tritondiving.co.za
Mseni Beach Lodge has a prime location inside the park, a short walk from a quiet beach. It has self-catering and B&B cottages plus a beach house, and is a good option for those wanting a more private stay. From R795 pp. There are fat bikes for hire; the restaurant has sea views, seafood, milkshakes and the best brownies. The lodge partners with Amoray Diving (from R400 per dive; courses available too). 033-345-6531, mseni.co.za
Sodwana Bay Lodge, on the fringe of the park, is good for families with small kids who may enjoy the more resort-like atmosphere. It has a restaurant, bar, pool, volleyball court and playground, as well as a scuba centre. Chalets from R765 pp sharing B&B or R940 pp DBB. Multi-day dive packages from R2 570 pp DBB; courses from R5570 pp sharing. 035-5719101, sodwanabaylodge.com
Gwalagwala Campsite in the park is huge and divided into sections. Log cabins from R400 pp and camping from R110 pp. 033-845-1000, kznwildlife.com
DO THIS
Go fishing from Jesser Point or along the beaches; several companies also offer offshore fishing charters. You need a valid fishing licence.
Take a tour. Ufudu’s turtle tours are at low tide and cost R850 pp. Visits to Tembe Elephant Park cost R980 pp, and sundowner trips to Lake Sibaya cost R450 pp (minimum of four). The lake, listed as a Ramsar wetland site, has wonderful and varied waterbirds, so take your binos. ufuduturtletours.co.za
Spend a day in uMkhuze Game Reserve, a top birding site with more than 400 species, as well as big game including rhino. Entry R48 pp, vehicles from R58. Book a guided walk (R250 pp) through the 900-year old fig-tree forest in advance. 035-573-9004, isimangaliso.com